Hey everyone, I am new here and a little messed up, I won’t say why I am messed up because I don’t want to get banned this early into the website :))).
But anyways, I had a question about the right method to take in buying the 2019 honda civic.
I was wondering if it is better to get the one that is closer to the base model (the sport) 2019 and upgrade the audio or to get the touring for the main purpose of having 450 watt audio with tweeters and whatever other fancy words they use such as subwoofers blah blah blah…
Expense is not so much an issue, probably will put 10k down on touring making the monthly payment 300-325 I forget.
We’re talking 21,150 for the sport vs 27,300 for the touring…now i could put 2k into a sound system, but idk if that’s going to be any good and if there are main issues I might run into such as overloading the battery or the system because let’s honest…I have no idea about cars and I’m just a finance guy that likes securities and stuff. So yeah, I’ll appreicate anyone that helps me out here and give you some + rep to make you a moderator on here or whatever.
I am fan of excellent factory original systems and a sceptic of aftermarket. But if you really love clarity of music, why get a rather loud car like the Civic? I love my 1999 Civic but it is and they are loud.
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Have you even listened to the stereo in the touring model ? The one in our 2018 Ford Fiesta will even rattle the doors.
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Thanks for your reply, Shanonia. I was rather unaware of the loud sounds that civics make. I have not tested the 2019 yet, do you think that will be loud as well, or is it just the older models?
If the ONLY reason you want the touring is to get the good audio system, I’d say NO.
Take the car to a good installer and have your own killer system installed. Multiple tweeters, midrange, subwoofers and big amps to run it all. Holes will need to be cut to support the extra speakers and sub’s do eat up some trunk space. Properly installed, it won’t hurt anything in the car.
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Thanks, Volvo. I have not tested The 2018 ford fiesta nor the 2019 civic, but what I can say is I like the look of the kia optima, honda civic, and toyota camry. I am not sure if I am feeling the ford fiesta due to it’s butt not being as nice. Not trolling or anything, just saying, I like a nice butt. I am open to other suggestions as well
Hey Mustangman,
I really appreciate your response here, I think this was pretty helpful. How much do you think something like that would run for? Should I not take it to BestBuy? Trunk space would likely be a concern because I do not believe you get much trunk space to begin with.
BestBuy might be OK depending on what you want. A specialty auto sound shop would be better.
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I did not say buy a Fiesta , just that the sound system is good . Most of the top line models anymore have excellent sound systems from the factory. You are asking about a vehicle you have not tested so that would be the first step.
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The cost difference between the two Civics is $6000. That gives you money for a new sound system and maybe added sound insulation so you can hear the audio better. If you are going to drive the audio system to the max, that will drown out the outside noise without any sound insulation.
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@cdaquila, better answer this one if you wanna keep yer job.
I concur with @shanonia – I don’t like putting aftermarket sound systems in late-model cars. The days of the DIN radio slot are long over in most cases. It will be challenging to fit the radio and make it look good, it will be challenging to get at what you need to get at to wire it up, and it may or may not break things (for instance, the audio system in my car is integrated with the navigation system, the speedometer, and a few other things).
If you like the upgraded stereo in the touring model, and want it and can afford it, go for it.
Keep in mind that while @Mustangman is most certainly not wrong, the really important part of what he said is “Properly installed, it won’t hurt anything in the car.” Not all stereo shops install things properly, and improper installation can cause major problems in modern cars.
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I’d go with the lower priced vehicle and install the sound system you want. You may need to upgrade the alternator and possibly the battery to accommodate your 450 W audio, but that modification to the lower price car should be not be a technical problem, and cost much less than the price difference of the two cars.
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Hey Shadow,
I think you raise a good point and that was one of my main concerns that I probably didn’t express. Those after market systems might not sync up that well because they were not designed to do so. I don’t want to blow this thing up.
Once we get talking about the alternator and battery, I can see an auto place screwing me over cuz I don’t know anything and they’ll see it in my eyes. But…it might be a good idea for me to talk to one of these auto places before getting it!
You should buy the base model and leave that audio system alone. You did not state how the base audio system was deficient so why should it need improvement?
The thing that I dislike about replacing airbags on late model cars is the aftermarket radios with the 10 pounds of spaghetti wiring.
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Hey Nevada,
You’re right, all I need is good SOLID base. I am not even sure how wattage even plays into QUALITY.
I think when I test is out though they’re going to show me the tricked out model with all the features on it.
You go to a place like that because you don’t know much about installing a sound system, and all the installers know that. An honest shop will help you understand how they avoid the problems encountered with sound system replacement in a new car. They love talking about sound systems and would be happy to discuss a new system with you for as long as you like. If you want a long conversation, let them help other customers or show up during a slow period, like midweek when the shop opens.
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Since I am currently in the middle of installing the THIRD aftermarket stereo and the 5th radio overall in my 15 year old truck, I will add a comment.
We often get posts by people whose batteries run down to the point of not starting over one or 2 days of sitting. After telling them they have a parasitic drain causing this, we often point to aftermarket remote starters, alarm systems or stereos…
You can buy a stereo with a bunch of cool features not in your older car or truck - USB, Bluetooth, navigation, DVD or even Android operating systems for as little as $169. That is what I just paid for an Android stereo. I bought this because my last stereo decided, after 18 months, it was OK to draw 180 milliamps while the ignition was OFF, overnight. This is on a vehicle I drive maybe once every 2 weeks. This means my 50 amp-hr battery can’t start my truck after about 8 days.
The radio works fine, otherwise, but it is cheap, Chinese made junk, as is the one I just bought and I paid $11 for a 3 year warranty. I suspect I’ll need it. This radio replaced a cheap, made in China, Blaupunkt that quit working after 12 months.
My parting advice is; If you go the aftermarket stereo route, buy quality. As much as you can find. Pay for a quality install, too.
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A person can only be taken advantage of if they lack the ability to say No or let me think about it.
Just guessing but I think that only 1 out 50 people going to an after market vehicle sound shop really know much about the systems to start with.
Not car related , but we just had a complete air and heating system installed and the rep had all kinds of info to help us make a choice and all I know is that air comes out of a vent to keep us comfortable.
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Jtsanders,
Definitely a good point, I am one to ask a lot of questions so perhaps I should give them a chance to help me understand. Maybe go around and get a few different opinions.