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Hey again guys I have a problem with my civic. Couple problems

I have couple problems I been trying solve for a while that my 98 civic 1.6L dx has.

  1. It idles very low durning the day in drive. My car is automatic. In the night though it idles normal in drive 750 - 800 rpms.
  2. I did a timing belt replacement and checked timing 3 times. Timing is fine, when I try to do the ignition timing it’s not lining up to 12 with the advance timing hun. When I move the distributor farthest to firewall it still don’t reach 12 like at 11 degrees the pointer doesn’t like up with red mark on the pully.
  3. simple i just changed my oil pan gasket like 3 times and it keeps leaking. What el I doing wrong ?

I would really appreciate the help.

Question 2: Turn the distributor until the strobe light is steady and pointers line up…that should do it
Question 3: Torque the bolts to spec and make sure the gasket didn’t move out of position when you installed it.

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Oil pan gasket bolts are 104 inch-lbs. for my 1999 Civic. Not foot-lbs. Did you ever overtighten the bolts and distort the oil pan mounting surface?

Another leak point can be the oil seal for the crankshaft, behind the harmonic balancer.


Hey thanks for the help. What do you mean till the light is steady?

Happen to know the torque spec for my 1998 civic dx coupe 1.6L

I changed all the engine and tranny seals even main rear seal. But oil pan still leak.

104 inch-pounds. That’s just under 9 foot-pounds.

The idle problem might be due to an Idle Air Control valve being effected by heat.,1998,civic,1.6l+l4,1315633,fuel+&+air,idle+air+control+(iac)+valve,6072

The ignition timing is off because the timing belt was installed incorrectly.

The stamped steel oil pan leaks probably because the holes are dimpled in the flange. Thereby not compressing oil pan gasket properly.

Hammer the oil pan flange flat to remove any dimples



I agree. I have never had to touch the timing at the distributor on my 1999 Civic.

When checking the ignition timing did you think to jump the test connector under the passenger side of the dash? Failure to do will cause the timing to be incorrect.

As for the oil leak you changed the rear main but did you inspect the journal surface for wear groove from the old seal? If the journal is badly worn a new seal will not help.
Stainless sleeves are made to cure problems with wear grooves.

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re: oil pan leak. perhaps the gasket moved in the process of setting the pan. next time use a spray glue for auto gaskets to hold the gasket in place, permatex makes one I think.

re: idles too low. idle rpm should be 810 (in neutral) from what I see. there’s an adjusting screw, but it must not be turned more than 1/2 turn either way, otherwise the computer will not be able to hold the idle rpm correctly. See bulletin 03-016 for more info.

re: timing

From what I can see, here’s the timing check procedure

  1. connect scs service check connector (per post above)
  2. start engine, in neutral, hold at 3000 rpm until radiator fan turns on, then let idle
  3. timing light check, white mark at tdc, and a red mark at 12 dbtdc (16 degrees on b16a2 engine)
  4. everything that might load the engine should be off (a/c, headlights, etc)
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Yes I jumped the cable in the passenger side

Thanks you so much I’ll try this

Appreciate you time and help so much
Thank you

Either oil is leaking from somewhere above the oil pan or you’re making a mistake when you replace the gasket.

As for the low idle, I often have the same issue with my ‘98 Civic, and cleaning the throttle helps, but it could also be an issue with the idle air control valve.

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