Before I make another mess, would love to hear how you all deal with vapor barriers aka watershields. The adhesive is stronger than the plastic.
You just peel the vapor barrier from the black adhesive…
Tester
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Yeah that’s what the repair manual says too. But even working slowly and carefully, the plastic rips a lot. 30 year old plastic. Just wondering if there were some good tricks for these old cars, or if it was considered easier to just rip it out and replace it.
The weather shields with butyl tape are easy to remove, the glued ones are not.
Body shops usually cut the plastic below the glue line, then use duct tape to secure the shield back into place.
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Then go to a home improvement center and buy vapor barrier tape to reseal the rips.
Tester
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Old and brittle.
You knew the answer all along.
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Well I think it’s pretty clear by now that I have 10 bad ideas before I find my way to a good one. Just looking for advice.
I’ve got some good plastic that I could use to replace it. And it sounds like from Nevada’s post that butyl tape is the best way to put it in.
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It can be thick, so just make sure there’s enough clearance. If not, I’d use tape.
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So I just went out to see how far I could get with gentle prying . . . and it was coming off cleaner and more easily than the other doors had. Today is significantly warmer than when I did the others, so I started warming it up with a blow dryer and that worked a treat. Only a couple small rips and done in a couple minutes.
I do have some ag-bag tape left over from making a Corsi-Rosenthal box that should be perfect for the other doors.
Most were installed using butyl tape. The glued ones would tear when removing, even when the cars were new.
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If it didn’t stick back on again I just used body rope caulk. It’s what I had.
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If you’re careful, spray adhesive works also.
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fyi, I’ve purchased butyl tape at Home Depot’s roofing section before. Pretty reasonable price IIRC. Not sure if the roofing type of butyl tape is the best type for cars though.
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Sometimes, the angle of the pulling helps reduce tears. The steeper the angle, the less chance of ripping/tearing. I’ve had some that were pretty tough to separate regardless. The thick adhesive ones I have sliced through the adhesive with a sharp knife leaving some adhesive on the frame and some on the plastic. Later, the adhesive sticks back to itself very well. A heat gun on low or hair dryer might help soften and release it. Otherwise, tape after cutting.
That did the trick.
Armed with my hair dryer I took the panel off the final door and found a very thin garbage bag had been haphazardly taped in place lol.
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