For the past six months my blower motor had been making a ticking noise when the air-conditioning was turned on and the power had been slowly diminishing over that period of time. All of a sudden the blower motor stopped working altogether. I tried replacing the motor with another one that was verified to properly function and the blower motor still doesn’t work once replaced. I’ve checked the fuses inside the car with one of those light up fuse tester probes and none of the fuses needed to be replaced. I don’t believe the resistor needs to be replaced either because no matter what setting the air conditioner is on the blower motor doesn’t work. What else should I Check? Is there more than one fuse other than the AC fuse inside the cabin fuse box? Is there a fuse in the engine compartment that I should check? Other than the wiring what else should be checked?
General suggestions: Have you verified that the motor is receiving power, such as with a volt meter? Look at a circuit diagram, there could be problems with its controls, a relay, etc. Put 12vt. across the old motor, if it spins it stopped for a different reason. subaruoutback.org or other model specific fora may have more on this. Other than the labor to get to it, there’d be no harm in reverifying the new motor functions when powered up.
Have you checked underhood fuses? It might help to know what year model the car is as wiring does not remain constant on any car. And do not dismiss the resistor at this point.
There is a relay between the power input to the motor. A bad connection there could cause this trouble. If that is okay and power is getting to the blower you should be able to manually ground the return side of the motor and force the motor to run. If that works that would mean there is a problem with the return side of the circuit. Like the resistor pack or speed selector switch, which are in the return side of the circuit.
One friend of mine had an old Audi where he needed to replace the blower motor due to similar symptoms.
He found that old motor was still capable of running, but was drawing substantially higher current than a replacement one.
His next check was a resistor block… which he found literally fried by the old motor (due to out-of-spec current).
I would not be that sure your resistor block survived and I would put it on the suspects list to check.