Hello everyone this is my first ever post on a forum page but im in desperate neep of some help
I own a 2018 hyuandi sonata and i have been working on it for a few years now. I have i stalled Megan racing coilovers on it and it had been running great for over a momth now. Recently the strut mount bearing lost separation with the mount its self. I ended up replacing it with a new one that i purchased from Beck. The bearing blew. Not sure if it is just a bad part or something im doing wrong.
These are some pictures after it happened and the bearing
What I see in the picture shows me there is no rebound plate on the top mount. There should be a large washer-like plate captured by the strut rod nut.
The way it is, every pothole your tire drops into cause the bearing to unload znd then gets bashed when the tire exits the hole.
Didn’t you get instructions with this coilover kit?
If you had the washer on the broken side, why is there no evidence of that? I don’t see any broken pieces sticking out from the nut.
Also, the 2nd picture shows a saw cut right through a structural part of the strut tower. Why was that cut and why hasn’t it been welded up as a repair? That is going to cause you serious problems in the future.
Next, how much strut travel do you have before hitting the bump stops? These adjust at the mounting brackets and the coil spring height so the strut will be in the middle of its travel and the spring will have some load on it when the wheels are hanging. Was that set properly? Or is the strut bottoming out on the bump stop and pounding the mount to death?
One more… the Megan site shows the strut top mount as a pillow-block solid mount like below. Why didn’t you use this mount?
Since this system was only installed a month ago, pretty much that identifies the installation as the reason for the problem.
And finally, you DID read the disclaimer on the website that all of these kits are for off-road-use-only even though they list a “street” version, didn’t you?
The top washer was just hanging there when i first heard what happened all i had to do was pick it up and im still in possession of it.
The saw cut was due to a stripped bolt from the previous owner we had it looked at and the mechanic saw no problems with it.
The spring seems to have no preload on it while handing and is able to be moved around a little. When i called them asking why their had been no mounting bracket for these they told me that the cars original strut mounts could be used.
If I am seeing the 1st picture right, it looks like the upper spring seat is upside down pulling it through the rubber spring cushion… The 2nd picture show the concave of the spring seat, if you look really hard zoomed in in the 1st picture it looks like a convex something there…
Yes my bad. I was just trying to set the broken one back up for a picture i did not install it that way. I think that the problem was insufficient preload on the spring. On the other side when it is hanging the spring has the correct preload and cannot move. With this one i must not have noticed that rhe spting could stil move around while under not pressure. Could this be the reason for the failure or would it be something different
Ok i will have it looked at agin and lake it down to the shop. But the main question would be. Could the lack of preload cause the bearing and strut problem
Yes, it could, when it is unloaded (like by a pothole) there will be a big jolt to the strut when it’s compressed.
I have trouble understanding how the strut’s spring would have no preload. Are you lowering your car that way? Did you adjust your ride height to spec following installation?
If that spring had no preload, the strut body could be adjusted too high causing a far too early bump stop hit. If the instructions don’t tell you how to adjust the ride travel and bumpstop space off, find someone locally who does know about this… or
