F150 is stuck at repair shop

F150 would turn over but not run and no sound from fuel tank. Towed to garage. Diagnostic code said bad fuel pump so mechanic replaced it. Now it won’t start and there are no diagnostic codes. He called a dealer who said it wasn’t recognizing the key (even though it’s the key always used}. We took all the keys to him with no luck.

All dash lights come on, anti-theft light is on steady but it won’t start, no noise, no starter, nothing. When key is off anti-theft light flashes like normal.

He is now saying we may need to take it to a dealer.

What should we do. My husband is furious.

As long as the anti-theft light is on, it will not start.

You have to find why it is on.

Perhaps the security system needs re-setting or the keys are not being recognized by the controller in the vehicle.

Yes, I know you said you tried all the keys. Maybe the unit in the vehicle is the culprit.

  1. I don’t believe that there is any code that indicates that the fuel pump is not functioning. Draw your own conclusions. Find out what codes the mechanic pulled (letters and numbers, no prose).

  2. My Ford PATS system (Securilock) system light flashes every 2 seconds when the key is not in. When turned to start or on, it illuminates for 3 seconds and goes out when functioning normally. If there is a problem, it is supposed to stay ON or flash rapidly. All of this information is in my owner manual.

The PATS system probably requires a scanner that only Ford/lincoln/Merc dealers generally have. Your husband will just have to calm down.

Hot wire the fuel pump and drive on…

weird stuff that little chunk of steel in that key is supposedly a resistor had problem similiar busted the ignition and clamped the 2 wires together and it fired up mechanic said impossible said i must of had a faulty decoder module OKAY think that key is a hoaks for dealers to make money bust the ignition and start clampin it’ll either fix it ir narrow down the problem

The chip in the key is real, not a decoy to rip you off as other reply mentions.

The SOLID ON theft light that does not go out after 3 seconds generally indicates the vehicle is in a “KEY LEARN MODE”. If someone tried to program the key back into the car, a SECOND key must be programmed to complete the process. You can not program just one key when reprogramming from scratch.

If you have an after market remote-start or other alarm installed, this could be the source of your problem.

Also remove the shroud around the column, and look for a transponder key glued to the underside, where it would be in close proximity to the ignition lock.

A really really good locksmith, can go to the repair shop and handle it.

I go to repair shops for this sort of work, to help peoples “regular” mechanic complete this somewhat specialized work.

Your mechanic needs to network a bit more, because not having the answer every time is not to lose a client over… you got to RETAIN client by bringing in the talent when needed.

City Lock
2898 30th St
Boulder CO 80301