It does’t make much of a difference. You can change the phasing of he car timing a bit to make a bit more power at higher rpms but you can only do so much more than the factory already has.
I’ve done what you want to do to this Corolla to a less-than-popular car. I rebuilt the engine, ported heads, new pistons, increased compression, new cam and ended up doubling the HP by pushing the HP peak up by 2000 rpm to 6500 rpm. Pushing your Toyo up to 8500 rpm power peak would necessitate a ton of parts, and machine work to get anywhere close to 200 hp.
Should I just be happy with the fact that I’ve beaten my friends 07 charger (stock) with my corolla and just end it with this car there? I don’t have much money to spend but if I was to trade this in and out another 3-4 grand on a car what could I really get?
The old saying; “Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?” applies here.
With average mileage your car would have a trade in value of around $3500-$4000 assuming it’s good shape (never been wrecked, everything works, doesn’t need any repairs, doesn’t have dents/dings etc.) With a $7000-$8000 budget you could definitely get into a faster car, but it would likely be as reliable or have the low operating costs of your Corolla.
It wasn’t actually, it was the 3.5 could just be cuz it’s old? my corollas faster than you think. 16v 1.8l ofcourse but I’ve stripped a lot away probably about 400 pounds, aluminum rims. Cold air intake with magnaflow. Coil overs, Upper/lower control arms engine strut bar and rear strut bar and hoping to get some type of cage soon? Can’t weigh more than 2500 I’ll time it with a friend and see how fast the 0-60 is but it’s less than 9 I know that for a fact because vvti on first gear gets me to about 40 in 3 seconds but I could be wrong
Our 2018 Ford Fiesta road test showed a 0 to 60 of 8.7 seconds . So your Corolla is not actually all that fast . So yes, you could be wrong . And the slowest time for a 2007 Charger is 6.4 .
No, I have a solid understanding about how fast it is.
Umm, I highly doubt that.
The steelies it came with might actually be lighter, at best you’re shaving maybe 20 pounds of unsprung weight.
Maybe a few horsepower, but you’ve leaving most of the rather meager potential gains on the table without a tune.
Okay
It already comes with those from the factory
look cool, but probably isn’t necessary on a street car, adds weight
Again sort of looks cool (probably can’t see much of it on this car), but not beneficial for a street car, unless it’s a convertible. Adds weight
Really? You’re pushing the boundaries of plausibility here. You must be trolling at this point.
The factory curb weight is just over 2500 pounds. Using your numbers this car weighs around 2100 pounds now. I’m kinda curious how you were able to take 400 pounds out a 2500 car.
Stock I want to say the 0-60 time was around 8.5 seconds for the stick shift, the automatic would be a few tenths slower. So under 9 seconds would be an expectation.
You have VVTI in all gears. It’s just Toyota’s name for variable valve timing.
Find what you want , just because someone here likes a certain vehicle does not mean you would even want to be seen in it.
Frankly you say you have limited funds so if you are as young as you sound you don’t need a high performance vehicle with outrageous insurance rates.
A very nice new edge Mustang GT
An average 2011 Mustang V6
A Dodge Charger R/T of about the same vintage as your Toyota
A Nissan 350z of about the same vintage as your Toyota
And one that likely won’t every recoup your investment should you wish to sell the car. Many people will likely offer less because of the modifications (granted the resale of an 11 year old car isn’t usually great to start with)
'04-06 cars, yes unless you swap the pressure switches from time to time. '07 and '08 cars got the RL transmission and the problems went away. Never had a speck of trouble with mine.
Engine mods engine replacement; it’ going to go well into 4 figures. Unless you are prepared to funnel a bunch of money into it you may as well quit thinking about this.
Even a very experienced mechanic doing this for himself will go through a lot of time and money along with aggragation to make it work.
The only time it makes sense to install a different kind of engine than the car originally came with is when the original is a known defective design, and even then it’s probably not cost-effective. I can remember back in 2003-2004 working at a Chrysler/Plymouth dealer, and listening to the mechanics discuss the idea of replacing failed 2.7L engines with other types of engines that were cheap and readily available from junkyards.