My electronic start was purchased (gift) and installed at Circuit City 2-3 years ago. They are no longer operating. My mechanic claimed he wasn’t responsible however after I had it there for service to find out why my lighter wasn’t working, my electronic start wasn’t working either. If I take it to another business that installs this type equipment, do you think this could be an easy fix or might they do more damage trying to fix what they didn’t install in the first place? My car is a 2005 Camry and the dealer said they didn’t install it so they can’t fix it.
Start with the obvious, batteries and fuses, then move to connections.
Corrosion on ground connections may not be obvious to the eye. Disconnect and reconnect, un-screw and re-tighten those little eyes that are screwed to ground, or otherwise freshen up connections and plugs.
After that call a tech line that should be in the operators manual for that system.
Mine has many sensors that have to prove out before it will start ( doors locked, hood closed etc. ) and again corrosion could be the culprit.
Mine chirps once as you push the button, three seconds later it chirps once as it starts up. If there’s a reason it won’t start itself it chirps three times.
Does your show an active indication that it’s not going to start, or does it just do nothing at all ?
If the initial installation was done using “scotch lock” splices,
Get rid of them , every one, I’ll bet they’re your problem right now.
These are that splice that you squash together with standard pliers. A center piece self-cuts through the wires’ insulation to make contact.
They are notorious for losing continuity over time.
Replace with crimp or solder splices.
There are several brands of remote starters. Find out the brand that was installed in your car and call several aftermarket car audio shops. They install remote starters and I’d go to the shop that sells and installs the same brand you have. They should be able to locate the problem.
Thanks for the suggestions. Unfortunately, I don’t have the manual or have any info about the system available. At this point, I’m going to go to my mechanic with the suggestions and see if he can help. If not, maybe there are markings that will tell him the brand. Then I’ll follow through with finding someone who can actually fix the problem.
Sounds like they powered the remote start receiver from the cigarette lighter fuse buss.
Check for blown fuse to the cigarette lighter, if it’s OK, then pull the fuse and trace back from the lighter using a 30-40 dollar wire tracing tool like this one:
GB GET-4110K Wire Tracker
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41QJ4YW3GKL.SL500_AA280.jpg
Identical problem with my wife’s car after she had it in for service at the dealer for an unrelated prob recently. In checking under the hood I discovered one of the wires to the (aftermarket) remote starter was broken/cut? from its connection to the ignition circuit. I tried using tongue and blade connectors to make the repair but after only two test starts the connectors were not holding because they worked loose. I tossed the connectors and soldered the wires and now the remote starter is working again. Take a good look under the hood and you may see where a mechanic may have inadvertantly broken a wire (forget about them admitting it, although it’s coincidental -if you believe in coincidences- that it just started malfunctioning after the service). The wires are very small and look like they are easy to break (or cut). If you fix it, make sure you cover the repair with waterproof tape to keep the circuit clear of condensation. BTW, did he fix the lighter?
Soldering is a skill unknown to these radio/amplifier/remote car starter/window tint installers. As is any permutation of I=V/R, or any grasp of ampacity for a given wire gauge.
A note about soldering from my aircraft electrical days. Soldering was forbidden as the solder point was precisely where the wire would fatigue and break. Aircraft use environmentaly sealed crimp connectors. Use the right connector,the right tool. and the right man and you will have a vastly more reliable connection than soldering.
Lighter wasn’t fixed. I thought it was still under warranty (my mistake) and took it to dealer to have it replaced (I’d never used it over a period of 4 years) and found my extended warranty had expired. They replaced the lighter at my charge and broke an inside compartment door which had been working. It’s just one little thing after another which is why I’m hesitant to have anyone try to fix the problem. Who knows what could happen while they’re looking around in there. Thanks for your help.
The right man makes all the difference! Thanks for your help.