Ok we have a big issue with a 2013 Ford Fusion that none of us can figure out. This model has the electronic parking brake. There is a switch inside the car that is supposed to engage and disengage the parking brake. The problem is that the parking brake will engage but not disengage. So right now the left rear tire is locked up. Both the switch and the left rear caliper have been replaced and that did not solve the issue. The message center says there is a fault with the parking brake system but we can’t find any codes in the module. So we aren’t sure if it’s the module itself or a wiring issue. Can anyone help?
I’d bet lunch that the parking brake cable is frozen.
And YES, electronic parking brakes have cables. They are essentially an electric motor driving a screw or lever to pull a pair of cables to apply the parking brake. If you’ve already replaced the caliper, then that’s the next place I’d look.
1 Like
I checked. No cable. Just a sensor on the back of the caliper
1 Like
OK, I see that the Fusion has the electric motor ON the caliper to apply the brake, so no cables. I owe you lunch.
Check to make sure you are not stuck in maintenance mode. Instructions here;
The brake controller is the next stop. You need to check the sensor inputs the controller uses to release the brake. Read the owners manual to determine what needs to be done to release the parking brake and start there. If the brake pedal must be pressed to release the brakes but not to apply the parking brake, that’s a clue. Maybe the brake pedal signal is not getting to the controller. If all the sensors work, it has to be the controller
2 Likes
That exchange had me laughing so hard I spilled coffee. Great advice on the Maint Mode.
I must’ve missed it
Just so you know we figured out the problem. We thought it was the left rear caliper because it was locking up and wouldn’t disengage. It’s actually the right rear caliper. The screw was stripped out on the inside so when you engage the parking brake the right side was not engaging throwing an error message on the dash and shutting down the parking brake system. Once the the module senses a fault you cannot engage or disengage the parking brake. That’s why the left rear would stay locked up. You learn something new everyday. I honestly don’t like these parking brakes. The whole point is that they are self adjusting
1 Like
Thanks for replying back with the solution!
They weren’t seeking a fault tolerant design I guess.
It’s a safety feature. What if the system malfunctioned while driving? The brakes could potentially lock up at high speeds.
My problem with the EPB has similar symptoms. I get the Release Park Brake as soon as I turn on the ignition. If I release it, it actually locks up the EPB. I have to shut off the car to reset it. So I’m driving around with the brake light flashing and the beeper beeping for a few weeks now. I never use the EPB. I had a full rear brake job done by AAA a week before this started happening. They rechecked the rear calipers and found them OK.
The error code B1111-54 says the EPB is missing calibration. AAA tried to reprogram the ABS module but it’s not taking. I took it to the Ford Dealer and they replaced the left actuator which didn’t solve the problem. Then said the left caliper was bad and sent me back to AAA. I found another Ford Document that seems to say if you have this error code to replace the ABS module.
Any knowledge or thoughts on this issue will be appreciated.
Same problem here. My 2014 Energi SE, left brake stuck like glue. Towed to dealership and they said the right rear actuator needs replaced. Well, okay, no problem…$400. Fix it. THEN, they put that on and then tell me it fried the MODULE ($1400). Oh hell no. The dealership had no idea what to fix, although I told them the Emergency Brake was stuck, so FORD to them to ‘try this’ and see what happens. Three weeks later, car still in the shop, this old gal blew a gasket. NOW, they say I need a new caliper on the right rear. REALLY? I am driving this mobile with the MALFUNCTION light blinking, not to mention the ding, ding, ding that make me want to cut my own throat. Needless to say, FORD is no help, just as the dealership. All this bull hockey cost me way too much ‘trial n error’ money. 
1 Like
Thanks for that response. The few things I’ve found all seem to point to the ABS module. I took mine back to the Ford dealer yesterday to have it reprogrammed. The programming seemed to work but the same DTC code comes up; B1111-54. ABS out of calibration. The book says that only comes up when the ABS module has been replaced. It obviously hasn’t been replaced so I’m leaning toward replacing it. A couple other cases were solved by replacing the module. At this point I’m concerned that third party shops will know even less than Ford so saving half the money may not be worth it. AAA is just guessing as well. These idiot diagnostic tools just have them replacing modules which isn’t the answer in this case. I was really hoping to find a tech guy who had figured this out on YouTube. I had a previous problem with my Acura which finally after years got fixed on YouTube by a guy who had time to figure it out. The ABS is a sandwich module. They gave me a price of $500 for the electronic module and 900+ for the combined module. Plus a couple hours labor. Probably close to the $1400 you were quoted. I would have them try the electronic part first; no reason the hydraulic part should be bad. I’m thinking about it while I continue to drive my beeping car. I’d start replacing parts myself but the ABS module has to be reconfigured to the Ford configuration for that serial number vehicle, I don’t want to invest in diagnostic tools to do that so still thinking and searching YouTube.
I get my brake to release by holding the brake pedal and easing on the accelerator pedal. About 30 miles is my limit to listen to the beeping or I may just shoot the car.
Just last week, I was told the caliper needed replaced. Needless to say, the dealership covered that for me. Problem solved. Truth be known…the caliper was probably all it needed. No beeping, no warning codes. Nothing.
Thanks so much for that Cindy. The codes are now telling my dealer to replace the caliper again as well but AAA says the caliper checks fine. I may tell AAA to replace it under warranty anyway. Otherwise I may do it myself. For a $75 part it would be an easy fix.
One final question; which caliper did they replace?
Thanks,
Lee
Forgive me for saying this, but your logic seems to be flawed
For one thing, the mechanic has to be smarter than the tool
If he can only diagnose stuff based on a fault code, his skills are woefully inadequate. That may change as he gains more experience . . . or not
And you want to find a guy who doesn’t get all of his silver bullets on youtube . . . there’s some good information on the internet, no doubt about it. But again, if you’re a mechanic and your approach is always to let somebody else figure it out for you . . . youtube, for example . . . then again, your skills are severely lacking
Thanks for that db. I think we’re in total agreement; the skills at the dealers and repair shops are somewhat lacking. I only refer to YouTube as another resource, not my Bible. It did solve the mystery with the Acura. My first choice would be a real mechanic with a work ethic like mine, who wouldn’t be satisfied until he solved the problem. Unfortunately, the only one I know is in AZ and I moved to MD last year. So, I’m talking to a lot of shops trying to identify that local guy so I’ll have a mechanic well into the future. Cheers,
1 Like
I’m in agreement with you
youtube could be seen as a possible tool or resource, along with a scanner, factory service information, digital multimeter, and so forth
I am having a similar issue and no one knows what to do. So frustrating. I haven’t had it for an entire year yet, and I can hardly drive it SAFELY. My electronic parking brake engages automatically, but not usually before my car starts locking up and dragging. If I hit the brakes too hard, say when someone cuts in front of me, my car locks up. Now it seems like I need my rear brakes replaced, but if I turn on the air conditioner it stops. I cannot make this shit up. If ANYONE has insight please do share.
I wonder if Subaru uses the same EPB. I just got a letter from Subaru that extends the warranty on the EPB to 15 years, unlimited miles.