I replaced the battery in my car ,(I’ve changed batteries hundreds of times) and had something happen that’s never happened before. After replacing the battery, my dash is lit up with faulty errors that I never had before. The turn signal fuse blew( fixed that)…as well as speedometer quit working. The biggest problem is it will not go past about 30 mph now. It accelerates, but not past 30mph or so. It still starts right up no problem. But driving terrible. What the heck happened? Nothing was wrong before switching the battery. The battery is from my other car but it’s still a 12 v…could it be the new battery is too big? Completely lost…06 dodge charger SXT. 3.5 v6…
Maybe try disconnecting battery and letting it sit for a couple of hours, then, after cleaning the connections, reconnecting battery. Might reset all of the computers. Battery being too big (physically) doesn’t seem a likely cause as long as it is 12 volts and connected properly.
Sometimes disconnecting a battery will cause drivetrain computer confusion b/c the learned idle parameters get erased. Could have something to do w/that I suppose. Usual symptom however is it idles rough for a while, before re-learning parameteres.
You may have to visit a dealership shop.
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Thanks for the quick response. Will try disconnecting for a few hours and reconnect.
I know nothing but there is no reason for a fuse to blow unless wires were crossed somehow. I’d take a look at the cables for any bare spots or anything else that might have been disturbed during the transfer.
I suppose a power surge might have affected the computer and maybe it is in limp mode now. Yeah a dealer may have to sort it out.
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Will do, thank you
The Totally Integrated Power Module in your Chrysler product may have failed.
Tester
I have seen a dead battery/low battery voltage cause the steering column control module fuse to blow, check all the fuses. Also steering angle sensor calibration may be required if the battery was disconnected while the front wheels were not straight.
The electronically controlled throttle body may need to be calibrated with a diagnostic scan tool but first they this; disconnect the battery, reconnect and turn the ignition on, wait 10 seconds before cranking the engine. This gives the PCM time to perform the throttle body calibration.
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Well if you do a quick google on the tipm
there is a short YouTube that pops up doing a hard reset on it. Disconnect the battery cable and Clio them together. Pull the battery, remove the tipm and pull all the connectors and let it sit for some hours. Might be worth a try. Crazy stuff happens from it. Can’t post the link.
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Here’s one of the youtubes there are others. Connecting the cables together evidently drains the capacitors (where ever they are). There are different units in different cars and this evidently doesn’t work with newer models.
I’ve learned that it’s just better to maintain the 12 volt power supply in the car while swapping out a battery. Run jumpers from another battery to the positive lead clamp and to a good ground on the body of the car getting a different battery and keep them hooked up until the new battery is firmly connected. That keeps all the electronic stuff happy.
Tester
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Interesting that it uses a 9 volt battery. Will it work if the socket it plugs into is controlled by the ignition switch?
Computers on vehicles lose memory when the voltage drops below 5 VDC.
The tool plugs into a cigarette lighter or power port that’s hot all the time.
Make sure you unplug or remove the bulb from the under-hood light if the vehicle has one before disconnecting the battery cables.
Tester
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