I sometimes work on huge diesel engines, and my size L hand isn't strong enough to tighten a primed 5 quart capacity oil filter sufficiently.
I’ve never worked on a diesel engine. And a 5 quart filter is HUGE…so I suspect it would be tough…even for my xl hands. But a filter the size of the Fram PH-1 (which by today’s standards is a big filter) I can hand tighten.
Every car that I owned had it’s good and bad points. Tractors are the absolute easiest. Low cars were tough to get a wrench on to drain while 4 by 4’s had skid plates in the way. The 4runner oil filter is right up front and the clearance is great but the skid plate bites you enough to make it worth while to remove. Overall, I agree. The Corollas were the easiest. I don’t buy cars though based upon the ease of oil change. After all, the hardest part for me is disposing the oil properly.
My 1984 Toyota Tercel was front wheel drive but had a regular north-south engine instead of transverse because they made the 4WD version on the same production line. You could reach the oil filter from on top and there was nothing around it to make it hard to remove. The oil plug was easy to reach on the bottom. There was nothing under the hood that you could not easily get at. I loved working on that little car.
I had a 1982 FWD Tercel with a longitudinally mounted engine . . . probably the same engine as the one just mentioned
If you popped the hood, you could see the street
Glorious . . .
Triedaq, my 2002 Sienna has the filter in front under an engine part. It is accessible, but the thing is horizontal which means oil all over the place. I try to change it first thing in the morning, though I realize a lot of people think you should change it hot. Over 200,000 miles so far.
I need a wrench to get it off, but put it on by hand. I rock it back and forth until I am 100% sure it is just at the contact point. Then, I put a small piece of making tape on the bottom of it. Then, I turn it exactly 3/4 turn until that tape is on the right side, 270 degrees from where it made contact. so far no leaks; no fall offs
And, I do use the nylon plug washers. I reuse them, too, inspecting them carefully. They do eventually show stress from use and that is time to change to a new washer. My son has also gone well over 200,000 miles on his Mazda with nylon washers. I tighten it by calibrated fingers, heh, heh.
As far as catching the drain oil, I first take off the filter as described with the drain pan under the car to keep my drive clean as I can. Then, I wait until the filter is all removed and the mess cleaned up. Then, I put on the new filter.
Then, I put the drain pan back under the drain plug and take out the plug. Let it drain as long as I can afford based on schedule. Put drain plug back in, wipe off any drops on motor, fill with 5 quarts, run briefly, then check for leakage.
Then, I drain the drain pan into the empty 5 quart container, and take the oil to AutoZone for disposal.
I tried when we moved to McAllen to have someone change the oil. Universally not satisfied with service any place I tried, so as much as I hate working on cars, I do it.
That’s a very good question to ask before buying a new car OP. I’d be surprised if the newer Corollas are that much more difficult to change the oil than my early 90’s Corolla. You will have to drive the car up on ramps probably, but that’s pretty easy to do.
If I were purchasing a new car, I’d definitely want to know how easy it is to change the oil before making an offer. I’d ask them to put it on the lift if necessary and show me the drain plug, and the oil filter. There’s some other things I’d want to know too. Like about how to check the transmission oil. And whether the car has difficult to service switches handling lots of current, rather than using relays for high current paths. So before making an offer, I’d also ask them to provide me the opportunity to read the owner’s manual, and access to the car’s factory service manual (including electrical schematics) for 24 hours.
Edit: OP, there’s a pretty good link somewhere here from maybe a year ago where folks chimed in on the easiest way to do DIY oil changes. You might can find it using the search car talk community function.
The newer Toyota’s seem to use the filter cartridges, not spin on filters. I just got a 2008 Rav4, and the first oil change caught me off guard. I could have used a cup-style filter adapter to remove it, but opted to order an adapter from Amazon.com specifically made for Toyota’s and Lexi. At least the job is fairly clean, since the filter kit included a drain adapter for the filter housing. I let the oil drain out before removing the housing cover, and let the small amount of oil left in the cover drip into the drain pan.
Lexus and Lexi
Octopus and Octopi
Come on, man . . .
You don’t have to be right all the time!
You left off Prii, plural for Prius! 
Believe it or not, my 1994 Geo Metro would have to be about the easiest car to change the oil on. It is one of those where you open the hood and can see the ground. Everyone expects that this tiny car would have things jammed in and impossible to access but it is like working on an old truck but just with not enough room to work. You can access the filter and the drain plug without having to get completely under the car. The filter is right at the front of the engine. The only thing to avoid is the hot exhaust manifold if you have run it to get the oil warm and fluid.
A tune-up is also like a 5 minute job. I changed the engine in my yard all by myself without a hoist. The little 3 cylinder was easy to lift in and out all on my own.
I also have a 2000 Chevy S-10 with the 4.3L V6 and manual transmission. The oil is easy on this one too and I really like an oil filter with the axis mounted vertically. I like to pre-fill my oil filters plus less spills when you take the old ones off. Oil changes are simple on this truck.