Bing
I would never trust though putting an oil filter on by hand.
That’s the only way I’ve ever done it, and according to the latest instructions I’ve seen on a new filter box, it should be fine. It read: Tighten one full turn after gasket makes contact with base.
Easily done by hand so long as you’re not slippery with oil.
Has anyone experienced hand-tightened filters that came loose?
As long as you can get a good grip (enough room), hand tighten to spec is fine. Some cars are very tight on room around the filter, though.
Never had a filter come loose, @bing course I am only looking at oil changes done since 1970. Never stripped or lost a drain plug either. But an oil filter wrench vs hand tightening is my MO. (ie modus oparandi(Modus operandi (plural modi operandi) is a Latin phrase, approximately translated as “method of operation”))
I’m with you, @auto-owner. I’ve always tightened the filter by hand, 3/4 turn past when the gasket touches. 20 years, and did not have a single one come loose or leak. Makes the next change easy, because you don’t need a wrench. The only time I dig my filter wrench out is when I have a ‘new-to-me’ car that typically has the filter too tight.
Never. I HAVE experienced several filters impossible to get off because some knuckle head used a filter wrench to “torque” them down tight.
I always hand spin mine on just as you note, and have never had a problem.
Not saying I went past the recommendations with a filter wrench, but my hands must be bigger than yours, cause without the wrench it ain’t easy, with a wrench it is!
I have owned 9 front drive cars, mostly Mopars, never had one that was hard to change oil on,
Has anyone experienced hand-tightened filters that came loose?
Never. I’ve always tightened them by hand.
The absolute easiest car for me to change oil was my 72 Super Beetle. No ramps, no filter*, no problem.
*no standard screw-on type filter.
If you buy one of my cars you’d better have a filter wrench handy because this is one knuckle head that uses one SOP (standard operating procedure, or procedures for plural). Just makes me feel better and I’m usually the guy that has to deal with it the next time anyway. Years ago I did have one on one car that just crushed in place. I think it was a Fram or something and had to punch a screwdriver through it to get it off. I can’t remember what car and not even sure if I had put it on.
I seem to recall that certain Ford Explorers have an oil drain plug that point straight down
Less chance for a mess . . .
I would never trust though putting an oil filter on by hand.
In the past 40+ years of changing oil…I’ve NEVER EVER done it any other way. I don’t know a single mechanic who uses any kind of wrench for installing a filter.
I guess I’ll just have to keep my 20 year old Corolla then. Screw on filter easy to get to, enough clearance under the car to get to the plug without a jack or lift. Also can use 10w30 or 5w30, no need for hard to find 0w20 synthetic. Wow how good I have it.
And I only hand tighten the filter. You can get it tight just by hand. Drain plug different story, I use a wrench but try not to torque the thing too hard.
I always put my oil filters on by hand, that doesn’t mean I can get them back off by hand. The fact that the op can get them back off tell me he is either using a Fram with the grippy surface or he isn’t installing them tight enough.
In 48 years of doing my own oil changes, I have never had one leak yet, and I put them on hand tight. I do a spot check though by running the filter down until it just barely makes contact, then I note the position of the label and then hand tighten. I check the label again to make sure I have gone 3/4 to 7/8 turn. I almost always have to use a wrench to get the filter off.
This is consistent with what I believe is the best compression ratio of the rubber gasket. I don’t have an authority or reference for this, but among all the engineers I have dealt with, 30% compression of rubber seems to be the accepted ideal compression with anywhere from 15% to 50% acceptable. Over 50% is bad somehow and less than 15% may not hold under pressure or will weep. My experiences with this have to do with the transformer industry and the rubber gaskets that hold the bushings in place. They have to retain mineral oil that averages 185°F but can go as high as 300°F.
Oil filter gaskets that I have checked are typically 1/8" to 1/4" thick. Most of the threads seem to be around 13 tpi. 3/4 to 7/8 turn would put the gasket compression right into the ballpark.
When I did my own oil changes, I only tightened the filter 1/4 to 1/2 turn when the gasket first touched the flange and I never had a problem. Most of the time I could remove the filter without a filter wrench. I did have problem once removing the oil filter after the dealer had changed the oil. Being too lazy to get out from under the car to round up my filter wrench, I reasoned that I was wearing a good filter wrench–my belt. I stripped off my belt (it was a wide belt), wrapped it around the filter with the end through the buckle and pulled. That loosened the filter. After that, if I couldn’t remove a filter by hand, I just used my belt–it’s a great filter wrench.
I’ve never used a filter wrench to tighten a filter even on vehicles with very limited filter access and never had a problem. The mechanics I know do likewise.
As to easiest, I’d say a 4-cylinder Camry like my youngest son has. No lift or jack needed with the filter right up front and unobstructed.
Well I can get them off by hand. It isn’t always easy, you have to grip it tightly and it slowly comes loose. One of those “thing thing isn’t going to come off” and then it loosens slightly after about 10 seconds of effort. I’ve done it 18 years and it never leaks there. Sometimes I use the Frams you’re talking about, sometimes not.
Even with the grippy top cans, I have never been able to get a full turn past initial gasket contact using just my hand. In fact, I never go that far regardless for fear it will become a lifetime filter. I’ve had to use the screwdriver punch or giant channel locks to get filters off used cars I’ve purchased. I’ve also almost always used a cap wrench to loosen/tighten them just due to space constraints but I still only go about 3/4 turn past initial contact if even that…
I find nothing too difficult in my 07 MDX to DIY. The engine, transmission oil, and differential fluid are changed with simple tools and drain and bolt(s) affair. I did the spark plugs, air filter, and cabin filter myself. No transmission filter to fuss with.
It calls for 5w20 which is easy to find but does seem to care when I put the common 5w30 in it and does not require synthetic.
I did use a garage to change the timing belt.
@MikeInNH
I sometimes work on huge diesel engines, and my size L hand isn’t strong enough to tighten a primed 5 quart capacity oil filter sufficiently. I use tools to tighten those suckers down, after I’ve gotten it started by hand
If that makes me a sissy, so be it
And my colleagues also use tools to tighten those big filters
Some things I just don’t leave to chance
I’m not sure if you do any heavy duty type work, but if you do, you must have XXL hands . . .