can anyone tell me what lights should illuminate when in the on position in a 95 jeep grnd chkee?
Alt, Coolant Temp, Brake, Check Engine, and if equipped ABS, and Air Bag.
Your owner’s manual should tell you.
Tester’s right, but you should learn to look to your owner’s manual for information on your car’s proper operation.
Tester's right, but you should learn to look to your owner's manual for information on your car's proper operation.19 tear old jeep, probably doesn't even have a manual in it anymore. But the good thing is they are on-line free. Maybe the guy who went 30k on an oil change could benefit from at least perusing the manual.
It may also be good to know that warning light test mode is made through the alternator field windings that passes the current for the lights to turn them on. When the alternator is running it builds up a field which stops the current flow and the lights turn off.
Only the “ALT” light is wired this way…I suspect this might have something to do with a “Check Engine” light that NEVER comes on because it has been disabled…
Maybe it would be easier to answer if you could tell us why you’re asking?
thank you guys i got it
i was asking about the dummie lights because the wires in my door jam have become um broken? Or actually they look cut and then sodderd back together.? I dont know what colors go to what but everything seems to work except for the outside driver mirror only goes up and down not side to side, and the dimmer on the rear view mirror doesnt work and oh lets see… I htink thats it but i have to chk on the lights you mentioned
I did manage to fix the windows that were not working though. it was due to those wires. Ware does a person find out what color wires function what part in the jeep? Ware does a person find extra wire to purchase to extend these broken wires?
A factory wiring diagram is indispensable for this. They should include a wire color guide. And how the circuits are connected. For extra wire, most of us don’t try to match the factory wire color guide. I buy a roll of wire with the same gauge as the factory harness in just a single solid color for harness patches like this. I just make sure factory color matches factory color on either side of the patch.
I know nothing of how to read any wiring diagram im looking at it and it looks like japanese to me very foreign stuff . I have the haynes repair man. and wiring does help me i need the size not colors well i need both really
I’ve bought many factory service manuals on ebay, usually for a modest price
I need this now its a life and death situation the wiring that is most important is the the run that runs the windows up and down . it is 100 and there are fires all around me well kinda far but not good situation if i had to evacuate with my animals and the windows wont roo down. . or maybe by then i should probly break one if that happens…
18 gauge is sufficient for anything in that door.
You can buy it at any radio shack, farm store, auto parts, etc.
I presume you will be cutting out from the inside of the door…thru the grommet between the door and the body panel… then tie into the harness behind the kick plate by your left foot area.
Get a roll any color…does not matter.
As far as color…this is an example only…I don’t know what colors you have.
Cut out the bad section of the (black w white stripe wire). feed the new wire thru the grommet. Solder both ends and tape up the connection.
Then go to the red wire and do the same…then the blue wire…and so on.
If you cannot do it one wire at a time and you need to install a bundle of wires thru this area just cut the length you need…example 8 wires 24 inches long. Just put a piece of masking tape on each end of the wire and label them 1,2,3,4 etc on each end then bundle them and fish them thru.
Do one wire at a time so you don’t get confused.
Don’t skimp on the wire or you’ll end up with one…just a little too short.
Heat shrink tubing makes for nice clean connections, slip a piece over one wire…solder the joint and slip the heat shrink over and use a lighter to shrink it.
Stagger your joints a little so when you finish and want to wrap the whole area…there is not a big bulge where all the joints are. Plus if there is a bare spot somewhere, it cannot contact another bare spot or a ground.
Be sure to use electrical resin core solder, not plumbers acid core solder.
Since you acknowledge not being knowledgeable in electrical things, perhaps the best approach would be to let a shop that specializes in automotive electrical systems do the work.
Have you done the diagnosis to know exactly what the cause of the problem is? You may believe you need multiple splices when if fact the cause might be only the line to the master switch.
Did the windows fail one at a time? If so, the regulators might be at fault.
The one thing I can tell you for sure from here is that if you butcher the wiring harness it’ll coats you more in the long run to get that straightened out plus get the problem corrected than it would to have the problem properly diagnosed and repaired up front.
thank you for all your help. I took it to shop got it fixed an works great.