Is this a common problem?
This Expedition is well-cared for.
Rust apparently caused the cable to fray and bind and break.
Is there a letter out about this?
Not like I can easily get into the doors and oil the cables.
Covered under warranty? 54,000 miles.
Is this a common problem?
“letter” means Technical Service Bulletin. I could not think of what it is called.
SUV is in a dry climate.
Fords usually use a lift ARM connected to a motorized gearbox. Are you SURE it’s a broken cable?
A piece of frayed broken cable and a white cylindrical tube with a coiled spring around the tube were lying in the bottom of the door.
Not sure from where it came - haven’t had a chance to look carefully.
The rusty cable apparently runs in a cable guide horizontally across the botton near the bottom of the door.
Is there a reference page I can see to name what parts are broken and how everything is put together?
Autozone’s web-site, after you register, will let you access exploded views of your “window regulator”…
Doors have drains in the bottom so water (that runs down the glass and gets inside) does not accumulate. If these drains get plugged up, water can cause problems especially if it’s full of salt…
I’llook when I have a cnance.
No evidence of water accumulation in the door. Clean andry.
The cable runs above where any water would accumulate if it did.
Appears moisture caused some rusting along with fine dust on the cable causing it to bind and break.
Should not happen in a two-year-old garaged vehicle in a dry climate.
Not covered under basic warranty.
Dealer can run you vin and see if you have any extended warranties. they’ll check the group number of the regulator to see if it’s covered
Part # is 7L1Z-7823201-B
Group number is 23200 or 23201.
In the last two years my Ford dealer has sold…1
Not a common problem out here in truck country. Three law agencies with Expeditions and two major motor pools ( GSA and Navajo Nation ).
Maybe your window regulator doesn’t like that 100+mph stuff you do ?
Thanks, Ken, for the part numbers.
Must be dust infiltration at 100+ mph.
(The average speed of this Expedition is likely far less than most.)
Normally I drive below the speed limit to reduce pollution and fuel consumption. (Usually 45 to 50 in 55 mph zones and 50 to 55 in 65 mph zones. (Always in right lane.)
Why did this happen?
Inside of door is clean and dry.
Most cable breaks ( garage doors, bicycle brakes, and car windows ) come from repeated usage in a short length of the cable, despite its overall length.
In a truck, there are those people who feel the need to constantly use the window; down when they first hop in, up when speed increases, down at the stop light etc.
smokers who just crack the window down a couple inches to smoke, then up, then down soon after , back up again and again using the cable most in a very short distance.
- Hot weather window crackers ( me ). Down an inch when parked , up for a/c, down to park etc
The more you use it in the least amount of run length, the sooner it wears right there and, quite possibly, why it would rust if not drawn into the mechanism where the most grease is stored.
I must open the window everytime to enter the gate code of the blood center.
Also 2 inches open to let heat build-up out.
Air conditioning? We don’t use no stinkin’ air conditioning. Wastes fuel.
At least now I know how to get into the door and willearn where to clean and relubricate.
And , I’ll be on the lookout for that problem too.
My Expedition is also an 08, exteded length.
Tried getting your rear rotors off yet?
And don’t trust free brake inspections.
They removed a wheel, apparently not the left rear, and said there was still good pad left.
There should be a law requiring squealers on all brake pads.
Yah, I read that post.
Haven’t needed brakes yet
In thirty years at this Ford dealer I’ve not heard my techs mention your problem. Hence my not chiming in with much on that post.
When they opened, I started calling every Fordealer.
Everyone said it is quite a problem and they use sledge hammers to break them free.
One person even said about their technicians getting in there and whacking away.
(That thought bothers me but I presume they use a block of wood or something to not damage the rotor.)
Can the cable be spliced and repaired?
Ford dealer wants $218 for a whole new regulator.
Everything else appears fine and like new.
I would expect the cable NOT to break after less than two years.
I don’t use the window much. (Don’t want to scratch the glass.)