1994 Ford Explorer - rear door power window questions

Let me know if I’m posting too much and I’ll tone it down.

A week ago I was ready to give this car away just so I wouldn’t have to deal with it anymore. Now it’s a different story. New windshield, fix broken ignition switch and door lock (attempted theft), new stereo and speakers, one new door lock actuator, and fix this power window.

The switch works. The motor seems okay. I don’t see a problem with the cable mechanism. But the part that the cables pull up and down was not sliding smoothly. I took these do-dads off and it slides smoothly again. What are these do-dads and can I order replacements?

When it’s time for reassembly, any lubrication tips?

Thanks for your help.

It’s called a window regulator,


Yeah they’ve got the whole thing available from $40-120 online. I was just wondering about those little rubbery pieces.

They’re just guides.

A new regulator will have new ones.


I hear you. It seems wasteful. Might just clean the old one up and see if a little superlube does the trick.

I don’t know but I ordered some rocker panel clips from clips and fasteners.Com. They had all kinds of small plastic and other fasteners. Kinda hard to look through them all unless you have the mfg part number, but might be worth a try. I was amazed at what they had. And a box was about $10 plus shipping of course, but an interesting selection of stuff not found anywhere else.

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What holds the do-dads down on to the metal piece? If they are hard plastic I can’t see them pushing through. If they are soft then I can see them catching on the moving part that slides through them. Are they warped or bent or too soft or lacking lubrication?

Usually grease is used for window regulator track stuff.

Turn the window regulator over, did you disconnect the cables from the window glass lift plate? This is where they usually break.

They’re soft enough to push into the holes.

Bing - either that website doesn’t like my browser or my browser doesn’t like that website. Typo?

Interesting. They did not break, I removed them so I could play with everything and see how it works.

The cables seem to run through the cable spool well enough. It’s just the “window glass plate lift” (thanks!) that seems to get jammed if it’s at all crooked.

I ordered a 40 buck replacement from amazon, but I’m going to see if I can get the slide/track nice and smooth before greasing it up. Then I’ll put it all back in (with the minimum number of rivets) and see how it works.

All one word, not like is highlighted, but then I clicked on the home page. My box had a different name though than my invoice but guess one is the manufacturer. Never mind though, they don’t seem to have them.

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Make sure all fasteners remain in place and holding the parts where they are supposed to be, apply a little moly-lube (or white lithium grease) to moving/sliding parts, and apply a little silicone spray lube to the window frame side channels, the channels where the edge of the glass slides through. Those white plastic gadgets look to be made of delrin. It’s a tough, strong plastic material with inherently slippery surface. My vehicles have manual-crank windows, but sometimes they get balky and that’s what I do to get them working like new again.

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What are these crank windows you mention? :neutral_face:

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It’s based on the same technology that car owners used for starting their cars in the early car-era … lol … sometimes I wish my modern-configured Corolla had a manual-crank-start option. Starter motors not as reliable as my arms.

My grandfather mentioned getting arms broken trying to start a car that way.

I could swear my 60 Morris had the hole in front for a crank. Would have been nice instead of pushing it to start. Ever push a car at the drive in? Up the hill, down the hill, rinse and repeat. Someone must have stolen the crank.


Project got a little derailed because somebody drained the battery yesterday. Raccoons probably.

I am now an expert and installing and uninstalling rear left window regulators and motors.

So, after playing with it in every which way, I decided the regulator was fubar’ed in some way beyond my comprehension. So I waited for the replacement which came this morning. After installing it . . . same problem. The motor. Took it apart a little and can see the issue. The metal piece can rotate nearly freely inside the plastic piece. I think a little epoxy will fix the problem.

Edited to add: I see now that the metal piece is supposed to have some play, but there are three little tabs in the bottom ring to stop it from rotating freely. Hmmm.

The three plastic rollers that go in the plastic gear are cushions. A new gear is $12.


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Cool! Thank you. Could probably check your post as the solution, but let’s make sure it works first.

I ordered two of them. Have to take the trim off to put new speakers in so might as well do the right side too while I’m in the zone.

Oh, can order just the plugs too.

Dorman 747-409 Power Window Motor Gear

Dorman 74410 Window Regulator Gear Plugs Compatible with Select Models

I don’t want to make a whole new post for this. One of the doors is missing the trim piece for the interior door handle. Any idea where I could find one?

RH F17B-7822634-BB