I have a 2004 Dodge Grand Caravan. It has experienced a few electrical problems over the years. My current problem is that the drivers side headlight goes off and on whenever you go over a bump in the road. A few years back, both of my headlights went out, it was not a bulb problem. I had it repaired at a Dodge Dealership for a hefty price. I made them show me what they did/replaced to fix the problem. I received a new BCM (body control module). This is a closed box that is attached to the front of my fuse/relay box. When the one headlight goes out I open my hood and SMACK/PUNCH this BCM and the headlight will go on! But unfortunately all I have to do is roll over the slightest bump in the road and the headlight goes off again. I live in a rural area and this is a big problem. I have found a used BCM on E-bay for $40 plus $20 shipping. I do not want to waste $60 if this is not going to fix the problem. But the fact that jarring the BCM makes the headlight go back on indicates to me that the problem is in that box. Any advice anyone, please?!
The next time the headlight goes off…just wiggle the wiring connections one at a time instead of smacking/punching the box. If the headlight comes back on then you will know what the problem is. Take it to a good independent mechanic and forget about the dealership.
First thing, you want to make sure the problem is the BCM, and not just the wiring going to the headlight. Most any shop could tell you that one way or the other without much expense. Just because it was the BCM before, that doesn’t mean it is this time.
As mentioned above, if not the wiring to the headlight, it might just be one of the connectors to the BCM that has oxidized. Sometimes simply removing the connector, then plugging it back in will fix it. For a while anyway. And depending on the type of connector used, the simple pcb edge connector for example, the oxidization can often be cleaned away with a pencil eraser.
It’s also possible the BCM has problems. Usually this is broken solder connections on the pcb. Caused by unequal thermal contraction and expansion between the pcb material and the traces. A good auto-electric shop could re-solder the connections on the pcb, might be worth a shot. And if all else fails, and you prefer more of a DIY sol’n, there are companies that specialize in repairing these modules. I’ve never used any of them, but one I’ve heard of is called “Module Master” or something to that effect. Google can find you others. No harm to give a couple of them a call and find out what they charge. Best of luck.