That’s the only thing left. If yours looks like this from below, that horizontal nozzle where the clutch hose goes must be plugged.
I don’t think you did. When a master is shot, the slave is very often not far behind. It’s annoying now, but it would be really annoying next month when your clutch went out again because you hadn’t addressed the slave.
Still stuck us been cold so i haven’t been at it until today. Here’s my yt video of troubke shooting https://youtu.be/h57Nlp8HYr4
It appears that the reservoir is sectioned off to prevent one function failing resulting in the failure of all others. FILL the reservoir and retest.
He said it’s filled to the max. I’ve never taken a reservoir off, not sure if there’s a regulator, valve or something in there.
The reservoir is filled. What do you mean,?
Try pushing the zip tie in as before, and fish the end out of the reservoir so you see it above the fluid level. If nothing comes out then…I got nothing.
Define FILLED. Is it level with the TOP of the cap?
Have you looked closely into the reservoir?
At 2:07 it is obvious you do not have the reservoir filled.
You were right about the reservoir not being full. The fluid wasn’t getting into the master clutch part of the reservoir. Once fluid got into that part then it began running out of the tank when hose not attached.
I tried bleeding it got a bunch of fluid out but I still have no clutch (sounds a little different when i pump it like some fluid is in there but no pressure is being built up)
The hose connected to the master cylinder that goes to the clutch master cylinder sounds like it’s leaking air at the master cylinder end when i squeeze the vacuum maybe this is why there is no pressure building up or it won’t bleed?
Also this makes me think i may have been correct in replacing my clutch release bearing slave cylinder. I’ll post pictures of the slave cylinder i removed. It looks shot to me. Plus there was fluid leaking between bell housing and puddle of mud like oil on bottom of inside bell housing.
How should i go about handling the hose problem without creating more problems? New hose, silicone on master cylinder nozzle, more zip ties or buy old hose from junk yard?
By opening the bleeder and working the clutch pedal, you might be sucking air back in. Try filling the reservoir to the top, then make sure the hose you have on the bleeder nipple goes upward some (like an inch) before going down to the catcher bottle. Don’t touch the pedal. Open the bleeder and you should see fluid and air bubbles come out. Let all the air bubbles get out, then close the bleeder and try the clutch.
Ok so don’t use the pedal and hold the hose up before letting it hang down to the bottle.
How do you know when all the air is out?
I looked up bleeding for a Lancer and other people have problems too. Some say to pump pedal thirty times, some say to gravity bleed. You may just try a bunch of ways. If you have the hose clamped tight it shouldn’t be leaking air.
There will be NO bubbles seen in the fluid in the clear tubing right as it comes out of the nipple.
You don’t want to be drawing air back in the bleeder when doing this.
Could there be any other reasons why I have no pedal though? Im kind if nervous that something else that is very expensive may be wrong
Yes, it could be a bad clutch master cylinder, but you’ve GOT to get all the air out first.
I don’t think anything else would affect the pedal pressure. You have the push rod or whatever it uses hooked up to the master from the pedal I assume. I think you just need to purge the air out. You still could have a bad master but that’s not expensive.
When I bleed the clutch hydraulic circuit on my Corolla I open the bleeder on the slave, press on the clutch pedal gently by hand, prop the pedal down with a stick against the seat, close the bleeder valve on the slave, then slowly release the clutch pedal to the up position. I I continue this until no more air bubbles are coming out at the slave bleeder valve. It’s a little monotonous but doesn’t really take much time. I install a clear plastic hose on the slave bleeder so I can see any air bubbles, and run the other end into a jar.
For anyone interested I will again mention the simple way to bleed brakes, clutch slaves, etc. With a snugly fitting 3-4" piece of rubber hose connected to the bleeder fitting and pointing upward and the reservoir filled and monitored the master cylinder can be pumped continuously until fluid is streaming out with each pump. With the hose pointing upward air will not be drawn back into the bleeder fitting. I have been doing it that way for many, many years and it is faster and easier than vacuum bleeders or with 2 men working… Very simple. Very reliable. The only drawback is the mess on the floor but a cup of Oil-Dry will quickly take care of that.
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It depends. I’ve had air seep past the bleeder threads. They even make special bleeders to eliminate this issue but I’ve managed by simply putting a dab of petroleum jelly around the base…
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