Doing Clutch Replacement in Walmart Parking Lot

I guess I have been overwhelmingly lucky all these years.

Perhaps. Or maybe I’ve been unlucky?
Regardless, the OEM bleeders are usually installed with some sealant and this will last for awhile. It’s a much more common issue with frequent bleeding ala racing. In fact, speed bleeders have replacement thread sealant for this purpose when the factory applied sealant wears away enough from repeated use. The threads on a bleeder body are not interference fit. The seal normally comes from the tapered seat.

I use the old hose and bottle method and have had a quite a few times where the return stroke sucked air past the threads. Simple enough to overcome if it does happen.

I know for sure how the air is getting back in. It’s getting in because the rubber tube isn’t air tight against the masyer cylinder opening. I can hear it when i squeeze the pump. What is the best adhesive to use? I have some thread locker gel im going to try that.

If it’s not a fitted hose line just replace it. They sell hose by the foot cheap. You could try RTV gasket sealant, not sure it will hold up on a hose though.

The fluid is gravity fed from the reservoir to the master cylinder and if air is leaking in when depressing the clutch pedal fluid should be leaking out anytime the reservoir is full. Is fluid leaking out?

But if you replace that hose a brake fluid specific hose is needed or possibly a radiator overflow hose could work. Hose for fuel, oil, ATF, crankcase ventilation and vacuum will not work. Brake fluid will emulsify rubber that isn’t designed to withstand glycol.

I got it back together i put a gasket sealer on the hose.

The only problem i have now is the fact that my trans is leaking in two places. Its leaking Between the bell house ( part that holds clutch and release bearing) and the actual transmission where the gears are. Its a little coming out right between where the two are bolted together.

And its leaking at screw holes for the pan i used it to lift there and i believe it damaged it a little

I would guess it’s the trans input seal. I hate to say how you replace it. I’m not sure what the pan is on that. Did you get the clutch pedal working?

The source of fluid getting into that area must be from the crankshaft rear oil seal, the transmission input shaft seal, or the clutch release bearing( if it is directly hydraulically rather than mechanically activated). If you can figure out what type of fluid is dripping – engine oil, transmission oil, or clutch hydraulic fluid – that would give you a pretty good idea what’s leaking.

The pan leak, I presume that’s the engine oil pan. To fix that you may have to remove the pan, straighten the edge that contacts the gasket as required, and replace the gasket. Don’t over-torque the bolts that hold the pan as that could cause you worse problems. I expect you already know the oil pan isn’t supposed to be used as a jacking or jack-stand point.

Yes i got the clutch pedal working. How do you fix it?

I know for sure it’s not engine oil

The only thing is it seemed to be break fluid the last time i checked and i didnt tighten the hydraulic hose enough at first so i think this could have caused a leak. In going to give it a day to see if it stops now that everything is tightened before i more forward

Im 99% sure that the fluid doing from my transmission is transmission fluid

I woke up this morning to discover that i had a soft clutch. Still pressure in there so it wasn’t like before just a lot softer than last night. I found a leak Near the front left tire Its dripping from somewhere onto the crossmember then to ground.

Also i tried to drive (before i knew there was a leak) and the clutch pressure kept going in and out to the point where i was being locked in gear for a second.

The brake fluid reservoir was lower than last night on both sides of the shared master cylinder reservoir, brake and clutch, not empty but lower. I refilled it, PRIOR to driving, a few centimeters above the max and it still did it

Check your engine mounts. Depending on how the clutch lines are routed, a bad engine mount can make the engine flex, which can flex the lines, which can cause weird intermittent clutch issues.

When I broke a mount on my car, it manifested by moving the engagement point to immediately off the floor, only when I was going in reverse up a hill.

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Like George said, that leak in the bell housing has to be the trans seal, engine seal or the slave. Maybe the seal got bumped during the work or your slave connection is leaking. The seal you’d have to drop the trans again. The seal itself isn’t hard to change, just getting to it. It looks like a pretty good leak.

If the clutch fluid is going down you must still have a leak in it. Yours goes to the brake too but the brake would be soft if that was leaking.

Brake Fluid Leak
I know for sure that there is a leak. I haven’t done anything and i took a picture of the reservoir in the morning and then a few hours later and it was lower.

Ok so the engine mounts are bad i already knew that coming into this. I know there is a tear in one of them. The only thing is i wasn’t having any problems with the clutch behaving this way before i had to replace it. Not really a problem i can change them easy and they aren’t we expensive

OP, is your clutch throw-out bearing the type that has the clutch hydraulic line going right to it, the hydraulic line goes into the bell-housing?

Yeah it’s a release bearing slave cylinder all in one inside the bell

I’m guessing that’s what’s leaking then.