What state are you in, maybe someone here can give you a driveway or lot space to work on it. I feel bad you took the whole thing apart and got kicked out of the storage place.
I would replace the entire fluid line i’Ll bet its really clogged up . it happened to me once with a chevy nova on the front brake line, it looked good ,no outside rusting, clean yet it was just clogged replacing the line fixed it.
I concur. Ive had trouble with clutch disk before the one i have in there now and it was slipping way worse to the point where i couldn’t accelerate but i still had pedal pressure. Although I can recall that it was spongier and when i put in the new clutch it got firmer. But the pedal never went completely away like it is now.
Well there’s not much to the hydraulic, you got the master cylinder, the line and the slave. You could just blow through the line to check that.
Yeah it was a pain doing all that work and not fixing the p problem. But i learned a lot. Also I have a new found respect for mechanics.
And the only problem that i have now that i haven’t mentioned is i dropped a bolt that is suppose to go in the rear engine mount on the cross member the big one and couldn’t get to it so i put the car together without it.i also left of the left hand engine mount’s rubber fittings off because they fell off when i put it on and i couldn’t risk lowering it again because it was too hard to get in place. Now i can’t drive the car because everything rocks so much that the radiator hose came off, the steering wheel shakes, and it just sounds like everything is going to fall out of the engine bay.
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So rushing to put the car back together created more problems and ill be checking the hose first thing in the morning.
You might be able to rent a driveway space somewhere. Try putting an ad on Craigslist. Shouldn’t cost more than the storage unit.
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I wish you a lot of luck but as I’ve envisioned this whole thing, I gotta ask where do you get the internet connection? Where are all the tools coming from? They can’t be in your car. And how do you get all the parts? Is there a store near by? I just think of the logistics of the whole thing is all. Around here there is not much monitoring of storage spaces but they don’t have power either.
Bleeding a clutch slave can take for freaking ever. The only way I’ve ever done it reliably fast is by using a vacuum bleeder - not the hand pump kind, the kind that hooks up to an air compressor.
I just broke off a piece of my transmission. Tightening a bolt that has what looks like a screw on the other side. Breaks on bottom of transmission right above cross member towards rear. I was rushing because at walmart and I got impatient.
Do you think i can just mend this? What product do you suggest?
I already have driven without this bolt (before I broke the chunk off, not very far though)
@cdaquila Carolyn , do you want to close this thread because the OP has stated a new one with a different problem?
No because people are watching this thread and nobody has replied to the other one. Its the same problem as my last post in this thread. Im just just trying to get a fast reply
I’d help but honestly never had to fix anything like that. If it were me, I might try JB Weld or something similar. It looks like you tried adhesive on it already? You’d really have to clean the break thoroughly before using it and wait for it to cure. I’d go easy on torquing down the bolt afterwards. If that didn’t work maybe a welder.
The only way to repair a broken casting at a mounting point successfully is to weld it. Or replace the housing. No adhesive will hold.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
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I did reply to your other post yesterday and said essentially the same thing mountainbike said.
I did pose the question of whether or not this broken piece is related to the starter motor mount. If so, that may be a real problem.
Looking at Picture #2 that broken off piece has threads, a bolt wouldn’t have gone in from that side.
Looking at pictures #5 and #6 there is no hole for a bolt to go that piece, so that threaded hole must be for some other application.
That bolt must go some where else, you’ll need to find where that is.
From what I can tell from the pictures you should be safe to drive with that piece broke off.
I’d be more worried about where that bolt goes than that piece.
That piece broke off because the bolt bottomed out in the hole and you kept tightening it.
Not related to starter.
I wonder what is suppose to go there because the hole is blocked.
If you can see theres a misalignment and it’s very small if you look at the lip at the bottom showing on the second picture.
I just got done with the cold weld afterwards Ill to find where the last bell bolt goes but i have to take it easy in the walmart parking lot. Maybe ill wait for everything to cure first.
Can i drive with a misaligned bell housing and no bolt? ( i cold welded the broken chunk but to my dismay some of the metal is too twisted to go back in place perfectly so I doubt that ill be able to get a bolt through there now waiting for it to cure. Also even if i do will it be strong enough?)
I think ‘it’s me’ is right, the bolt bottomed out. I have no idea what goes there. Maybe look for photos of the same trans. I see what you mean by the misalignment. It should line up with just the mounting bolts. I don’t know what that’s from. Maybe it was like that or it dented. That bolt wasn’t holding the housing on, unless that’s a sheared off bolt in there, so I would think it would be okay to drive it.
Good news, I got a temporary job! I start next week. In the future I may buy a van and do a conversion if you are interested ill make a thread on it.
Chris that is what I was thinking. If they shear the bolt off then they should have plugged the hole so this would not happen. the vibration slid the bell house and trans apart so im going to have to undo the bolts a little then reset it. Easy fix.
I still haven’t figured out the clutch pedal but that should be easy too. My next post will be when this is all fixed. Thanks for your support
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I can’t quite figure it out from the photos, but you may be looking at what’s called a “blind hole”. That’s a hole that bottoms out rather than going all the way through. If a slightly too-long bolt is overtorqued in a blind hole to try to get the mating parts to come together, or in some other manner the bolt is bottomed out, it can break the bolt off. Cast mating parts not being secured, their “ears” can break off with the stresses involved in operation.
I don’t know this to be the case here. I’m only pointing out the principles in case they should apply.