Dodge dakota 1998 5.2l v8 magnum standard

Hello , i am new here ,
But i need help with my 1998 dodge dakota 4x4 its standard , and i have no breaks , ive changed my break pads the back are drums , ive gotten new wheel cylanders , new break assembly kit , for both sides , my abs light is on as well , i had a beoken line and it snapped so i replaced it , also noticed my master cylander was screwed so i replaced it and ive tryed bleeding numerous times the pedals still squishy no breaks what so ever , the resavor is full of break fluid , the wherl cylanders in the back are pushing out break fluid but i still have no breaks . As i said after all this the abs light is still on and squishy break pedal , any ideas ? Thankss !

  • Tanner

If you can’t spell “brakes” you probably should not be trying to fix them…ABS systems can be tricky, especially the early designs…The factory service manual will give precise troubleshooting procedures, step by step instructions detailing how to isolate and correct problems…

Did you bench-bleed that new master cylinder before you put it on? Have you used a pressure bleeder and followed the proper bleeding procedure? Can you hear the ABS pump running? Does it ever shut off?

WOW, was the ABS light on before you started this parts replacing odyssey? If it was, you are way out of you depth. Of course the ABS light is still on you never addressed it. Did any one pull the ABS codes? Or did you just start throwing parts at it? Take all your “breaks” “cylanders” “resavors” and “wherls” to a real shop. And for heavens sake either learn to spell or just look over your post anything that might be misspelled will be underlined with red. I got a head ache just reading that trash. Sorry rant over.

When you replaced the MC, did you bench bleed it first? If not, take it off and try doing that first. Usually there are instructions with the replacement that explain how to bench bleed a MC.

Do you have access to some kind of shop manual procedure for brake bleeding? Every vehicle is a little different, in the order you have to bleed the lines in, and some may have accumulators that need to be bled separately. ABS equipped vehicles sometimes require the manufacturer’s scan tool to set the ABS into a special mode, otherwise bleeding is impossible. On some vehicles the configuration of the system is problematic and pressure bleeding of the entire system is about the only way to do it. If at all possible, try to find the manufacturer’s bleeding procedure for this vehicle.

It won’t be possible to eliminate a squishy pedal if there’s anything moving in the brake system. Make sure the rear drum brakes are tightly adjusted, drums to shoes, so if you adjusted them a little more tight the wheel won’t spin freely. Sometimes if all else fails you have to take everything apart and see what’s causing the movement. If so, start at the front disc calipers as they tend to get into stuck-in-the-wrong-place configurations more than drums.

If you’ve changed wheel cylinders or calipers, make sure you haven’t installed them upside down. I know it seems impossible, but on many vehicles it is actually quite possible to do this. Often involves putting the one supposed to go on the right side on the left, etc. The way to tell it is correct, all the bleeders should be on top of the calipers/cylinders, and point up.

FYI, when I bleed my Corolla, starting at the longest line I open the bleeder screw, the push on the brake pedal with my hand only (not my foot), and only to about the 3/4 way down position, not all the way down. Then – keeping the pedal at that 3/4 position – I close the screw. Repeat until there’s clearly no more air coming out. Then move to the next longest line. For me that has always worked. Press gently and slowly, like you are squeezing toothpaste out of a tube, no pumping on the brake pedal at all.

Brake bleeding can be very frustrating. Suggest to keep calm and approach it scientifically. If there is nowhere, no gaps, for anything to move and no air it the hydraulics, you pretty much have to get a firm pedal. You might have to figure out a way to eliminate which wheel it is, one by one. Best of luck.

This may seem like a rude question . . .

Are you quite certain there are no more brake fluid leaks at this time?

It might be a good idea to jack up the car and have somebody keep their foot on the brake pedal, while you roll around underneath, on a creeper, looking at the breaks

Some brake hoses, for example, look fine, but when you apply the brakes, a bubble will literally burst. it happened to a colleague a few months ago. I stepped on the brakes while he was underneath. A hose which looked perfect with no pressure applied, spit out brake fluid with my foot on the pedal. When I released the pedal, it again looked “normal”

it was not visually leaking brake fluid with no pressure applied

Sometimes you see some interesting situations

Use that same method I described to check out the brake hose going into the calipers. Some of them use a banjo bolt with copper sealing washers

Also take a very good look at the brake caliper seals. I’m talking about the seals for the pistons. You’ll have to remove the brake pads again, to take a look