I have 2005 Tbird, premium edition/
It dies. “no start”
There have been many trips to the dealer with replacement of battery, two control circuits, a two week sit in their shop, then, after warranty was up a replacement of the REM (?) which the shop wanted me to pay for (5-8 hundred bucks) that ESP and them worked out after a bit of discussion.
First time dead was in the second week of ownership, last was when I went to Europe for 2 weeks last month. I DID buy one of those portable auxilliary batteries.
My daughter has a 2003 Bug with a solar charger as standard equipment.
I have 2005 Tbird, premium edition/
I don’t know where you live but many states have “lemon laws”. These laws protect you from having to deal with the same repair over and over. Consult your states attorney general’s office. Also ask the dealer for the contact info. form the area factory service rep. These are company people who try to solve persistent problems and can help reduce the cost of repairs. Since this is an ongoing problem there should NOT be any reason for you to pay any money. This should all be covered under warranty. Good luck
According to Oregon revised statutes, I am past the relief period (1 year) and 12000 mi (12500)…
I lose on the law part
I’ve contacted Ford and they ARE OF NO HELP, suggest I return to the dealer. As I work for a living (0700-1900 5 days a week most of the time, sat and sun abut 4 hours), I have no time for tis.
Are you stating that the battery drains down while the car sits? It also appears you are saying this problem has only happened twice. I assume the first time was when the car was new, in 2005, and not just new to you recently. The second time was just last month, is this correct?
suggest install a simple battery kill switch (mounts om battery post)…if that solves problem, you’ll know car has something that slowly drains battery
Its a nice car, to bad your having issues with it. My friend had an issues like that on his 04 it ended up being the security system. If you leave the doors unlocked the security system doesn’t turn on. maybe you can try that next time you go on a trip.
if you install a battery kill switch, you will never have your obd 2 montors complete.
try taking it to a good shop and have them test for a draw on battery.
or if you have a muti meter you can test it your self, set meter to dc amps disconnet one battery termail and set meter in between trem and battery, draw should be less than .03 amps
heres a pic
Remove the negative side battery cable from the negative battery terminal.
Attach an ammeter(this measures amperage) between the negative cable and the negative battery post. wait a few seconds to several minutes for the car to go into sleep mode. i.e. when you make the contact with the test light the cars computer systems “wake up” after a bit of time they will go to “sleep”.
If the ammeter is reading over 25-50 milliamps, something is using too much battery power.
Go to the fuse panel(s) and remove fuses, one at a time. Pull the main fuses (higher amp ratings)last. Be sure to observe the ammeter after pulling each fuse.
Watch for the ammeter to drop to acceptable drain. The fuse that reduces the drain is the draw. Consult the owners’ manual or service manual to find what circuits are on that fuse.
Check each device (circuit) on that fuse. Stop each lamp, heater, etc. to find the drain.
Repeat steps 1&2 to test your repair. The ammeter will tell you exact numbers.
When did it start happening??? If it started to happen BEFORE the 1 year period or 12k miles then the Lemon Law is still in effect.