My Miata has not run all winter. I wanted the oil pump to pick up the oil as fast as it could to minimize wear. So, I drained the 10W30 and filled it with thin 5W20 and started it up and ran it for ten minutes. I then drained it again and refilled it with the usual 10W30. My question is, could I have created a problem with the hydraulic valve lifters or anything else?
I just don’t see the specs on these oils being so different.
You did absolutely no damage or caused no problems. It would take a lot more than 10 minutes in july or august weather before you would cause any damage.
No harm but why all the fuss? If you live in a cold climate next fall change to 5W20 and then drive with that weight in the cooler fall and spring months. Then go to 10W30 for summer months. At least get some life from the oil between the changes.
Better yet, use 0W30 synthetic; better than 5W20 for startup and you have the 30 weight for normal warm operation. My son has this in his Mazda all winter.
The fuss is, “My Miata has not run all winter. I wanted the oil pump to pick up the oil as fast as it could to minimize wear.” Most of the wear in an engine is done at start up, and this is amplified if the engine has not run for 5 months. As far as life of oil, I make double oil changes every few months and change the oil about every 1000 miles. My question was about valve lifters but thanks for the info on oil changes.
All you did is waste your time and 5 quarts of 5w-20…There is a special site for lubrication obsessives…bobistheoilguy.com. Here you can find an entire section on “pre-lube methods”. You can install an external electric oil pump and at the flick of a switch, pump up full oil pressure before you ever start the engine. Lubrication Nirvana…
A person in my town installed one of these and nearly ruined the engine in his 944 when it failed and dumped oil everywhere. As far as wasting oil, I always do double oil changes in spring. Thank you for the oil change advice. The request was hydraulic valve lifter info.
I was going to say something, in jest, about hand-lubbing the lifters; but, I was afraid you would take it seriously.
About all you can, reasonably, do to ensure the best first-of-the-season lubrication would be to remove the spark plugs, disconnect the fuel injectors, and crank the engine a couple of minuets, let the starter cool 5 minuets, crank again, and one more time for good luck. Put sparks plugs back in, and drive. The end.
No problem. Do you have an earlier model Miata? Did you hear valve lifter clatter on start up? Common Miata issue, but its usually heard with heavier oil and will usually go away after warm up. I ask because you seam worried about the lifters. Don’t worry about it!
10w30 is the preferred oil for the 1.6 and 1.8 engines for everyday use.
I change the oil in my 90 Miata when I put it in storage and lube the cylinders through the spark plug holes. When I take it out I pull the plugs, disable the ignition and fuel pump and crank it over a few times until I see some oil pressure. Hook everything up and fire it up, then change the oil. Done this almost every year for 19 years…no issues.
Double oil changes and 1000 miles intervals! Three months or 3000 miles is a more regular service period. And I thought I was obsessive 
Have you been on the Miata.net? http://www.miata.net/
Have you ever noted that after an oil change it takes a couple of extra seconds for the oil pressure to come up? If you change to 5W20 weight in the fall and start the car with that oil still in it you are going to get more oil to your lifters a few seconds quicker than changing the oil just prior to start up.
If you really want to lube the motor prior to firing it up, pull the plugs and squirt some oil in the cylinders and crank the motor as others have recommended.
Yes your lifters are dry after sitting that long but they capture the oil quickly, lighter oil at start up and keeping the revs low during the 1st couple of minutes is the best you can do.
This should never be done. At cranking speed, it takes a long time for oil pressure to build up. The cranking will be dry for most of the time causing unnecessary wear.
When the engine starts, oil pressure builds up very fast, with in a few revolutions so the wear is minimized.
The car will be fine but for future reference you might consider this if the need arises to start an engine after an extended sitting spell.
Disable the fuel pump or the ignition so the engine will not start and crank the engine until the oil light goes out. This will put pressure into the system while the engine is rotating at very low RPMs and will avoid momentary burn-off of any slight amount of oil on the crank journals.
It will also sling oil onto the cylinder walls and prevent any possible dry cylinder scuffing.
Double oil changes?? Why?? Change the oil when you put it to sleep. When you wake it up, it’s still the same fresh, clean oil. Your lifters can not tell the difference between 5w-20 and 10w-30. They simply don’t care. They just want clean, pressurized motor oil.
You wasted some time and money but nothing else. Unless you remove the oil pump, it picks up the oil right where it left off. The oil doesn’t drain away from the pump.
Thanks for the comments on lifters. They were clicking away more than other springtime’s. I know little about lifters other than they can fail for mysterious reasons sometimes. I appreciate your help.
Since I do double oil changes anyways, where’s the wasted money. And you consider time in the garage working on cars as wasted time??? Would you rather I spend my time watching Broadway musicals? Thanks for the oil change advice.
I’m almost sorry I asked a question on lifters here. All the nuts came out. First, I enjoy changing the oil and I do so. Second, the question was about lifters. And third, nobody should pull the plugs, disable the injectors and turn the engine for five minutes. I’m no mechanic, but nobody do this. I think someone read about how to use fogging oil in the cylinders, but only read half the instruction. I’m out of here.
There is no material difference in time before oil pressure builds up between a car that has not run in 24 hours or 24 months. What you did was to get an additional oil change, no harm, but frankly little or no advantage.
That Miata is a solid little car and does not need excessive worry. Do make sure you follow the maintenance listed in the owner’s manual (remember time or miles which ever comes first). The only thing I know of that it needs is new plugs and plug wires more often than most cars since it fires the plugs twice as often. I had one it is a solid car.
Yea, they do seem to have a little clatter, but I have never had or heard of any real issue other than the sound.