Damaged Crossmember

Maintenance/Repairs
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1

I bought a 2001 Nissan Quest GXE about a month ago for $500. I have about $650 in parts starting at multiple gaskets, plugs, wires, junk yard injectors, distributor, front & rear passenger motor mounts, a few random coolant hoses, heated O2 sensor, knock sensor, air filter, and a full synthetic oil change(yet to be installed water pump/timing belt/cam & crank seals because iko if the timing belt has ever been changed). It has 164k miles and runs great now. As I can see it still need the driver side front and rear motor mounts and it is leaking a trans fluid and power steering fluid at a pretty good pace. I think it’s just the resivior and possibly the lines, I have to take it to the car wash and wash it all off to get a better idea of where it’s leaking from. And I am gonna get the trans serviced for $110(pan gasket, fluid, filter, and adjustment to the bans and linkage)

Now for my concerns and questions.
I did the motor mounts today, one of the rear crossmember bolts just spins, I cannot get it to come out or tighten up. The same is also true for one of the front bolts. I got a bit over zealous with my 24" breaker bar tightening them up. How do I get these out now? I don’t think they are stripped because they won’t even pry out. I would like to get them out and put bigger bolt or something, but I don’t even know how to start to try and fix these. I’m considering a shop, but being as it only is a $1200, I’m not sure a shop will do me any justice to get it fixed. And I don’t think the crossmember will fall out. So should I just not worth about it until it’s a problem and focus on the other issues.

My reason for getting this vehicle is me and my lady are expecting a baby July 24th and my old 93 Caravan (build for competitive audio competitions) is not exactly baby friendly with so so heat, no ac, untinted windows. Runs strong but has batteries and wires in the cabin and does over 155dB at around 40hrz. So that is why I would like to find a solution to these crossmember bolts, or atleast have someone put my mind at ease to if they should be good atleast safety wise.

This is my first time posting here as a member and I apologise for dragging this on.

2

Could you cut the bolt and push it out?

3

Nissans are “known” for having internal nuts spot-welded inside their cross-members with a single tack of welding, so I would assume that weld detached.

The cure is to cut the bolt at the head and to remove it by partially removing the cross-member and pushing it through

Here I can imagine that internal nuts in the body are also spot-welded by Nissan, most likely in the similar fashion, so develop a plan what you do if these detach. I would make sure to pre-treat them with WD40 or better penetrant before going crazy with a breaker bar.

4

Yea I came to the same conclusion about it being spot welded internal nuts. I have a U-Pull-&-Pay really close to me. I think I’ll just go get a whole lower radiator core support and swap it out. Idk what to do about the rear one, I’ll have to climb under and get a better look. Maybe I can use a grinder to make a slot for a wrench.

Thank you for replying.

5

I would drill a hole in the cross member to expose the broken weld nut, and then weld the nut back onto the cross member thru the drilled hole.

Tester

1 Like
6

I don’t have a welder. And to be honest I crossthreaded the heck outta both, I had to rent a thread restore kit and ran it through it. It’s like $29 to get the whole lower radiator core support.

7

I went to the junk yard and yea that whole front support is welded to the frame and inner fenders. But I got new bolts since I know the old ones are tore up, got some grade 8 stainless nuts that will fit. And a 3/4" colbalt drill bit. I’m gonna drill the bolts out and break the welded nut off the side that ain’t broke and just bolt it back up. There are already holes in that part if the frame, but they aren’t centered over the wholes. I am just worried enlarging those holes will weaken it but for a cheap ride and how well that piece is supported I don’t think it will matter if I make sure to stay out of the meat of the corners of that support cross. Think this sounds like a decent repair? It’ll be a pain if I ever need to take that cross. Member out but atleast I don’t have to worry about my motor falling out