Hey everybody. Quick question. I have a 2015 Nissan Versa and and the dealership wanted to charge $200+ to rotate my tires. I have 15,000 miles on it and they have never been rotated so it’s probably a good idea, but there’s no way I am paying them that for some thing I can do myself. So I went to take my tires off and ran into a problem. One of of every four lug nuts on each wheel is cylindrical which makes it impossible to unlock using my wheel nut wrench. The picture link shows you what I’m talking about.
Any idea on how to get this lug nut off? I tried some handheld wrenches but it wouldn’t budge. Thanks for your time!
There should be an envelope in your glovebox or trunk; possibly with the tire tools, that contains the key for the lug nut in the upper right. If there isn’t one, Nissan owes you one and your dealer can get it for you under warranty. The key will have the standard hex pattern on it so that you can remove it.
That’s an antitheft lug. It requires a special socket.
First check to see if it’s referred to in the owner’s manual. If Nissan put it on, the special socket should be provided with the car. After all, what would you do if you had a flat tire?
Since the car is new, the dealer should be able to remove it and replace it with a standard lugnuts without charge. If they refuse, find out how much they’ll soak you for the special socket, buy that, and forward a letter of complain to Nissan along with a copy of the receipt. IMHO that should not be there.
$200+ to rotate your tires? Someone’s boat payment is due.
Wheel Locks To Prevent Theft. The Vehicles Should Have Come With The Tool To Install On A Socket Wrench Handle/Ratchet. If Not, Perhaps An Auto Parts Store Could Help. There Are Several Different Varieties.
The lug nut in the upper right of your picture is a lock. You’ll need the appropriate key to get it off. The pattern in the end of the nut will be duplicated in the raised end of the key, which will also look like a nut.
Look in your trunk and your glove box. If you don’t find it, give the dealership that sold you the car a call.
"Going to contact the dealer to get the key for the lock."
Have you thoroughly checked the car for the presence of said key?
I can’t say for sure exactly where Nissan might place their lug nut keys, but I can tell you that Toyota attaches them to the lug nut wrench (the implement that most people–incorrectly–refer to as a “tire iron”).
If the key isn’t attached to the lug nut wrench, then I would suggest that you check…
…in the spare tire recess of the car
…in the glove box
…and if all else fails…you might even want to see if the Owner’s Manual mentions anything about the key for the lug nuts.
Yes, the dealership would be VERY happy to sell you a key, but since it should be sitting somewhere in your car, I think it behooves you to check everywhere in the car before paying the dealership for the key that was supposed to have been provided for you.
A Good Salesperson Would Have Included Mention And Explanation Of Wheel Locks While Delivering A New Car To A Customer. I Don’t Have All The Details, So Maybe That Happened…
I’d appreciate hearing how this story ends. Could you pop back on here and give a resolution?
I will guess the 200.00 charge includes more than tire rotation . Most likely a communication problem . Besides any tire shop can do rotation , it does not have to be the dealer.
"I will guess the 200.00 charge includes more than tire rotation . Most likely a communication problem "
+1
While dealerships can be very expensive places for maintenance, I really doubt that the stated $200 was solely for tire rotation. Just as the OP doesn’t seem to recall anyone mentioning the presence of a lug nut key in his car, it is entirely possible that he has failed to recall exactly what was included in the stated fee of $200.
I am very skeptical that the dealership would charge $200 for only a tire rotation.
It would be highly irregular, and probably unethical also, for a new car dealer to sell a car with antitheft lugs, yet the customer is not provided the tool to remove the lugs
Let me get this straight…the dealership…who probably installed said locking lug nut…Doesnt have their own key for it? The pattern on those lugs only has about 4 different variations IF THAT MANY… I have all of them. Ive collected them over time. But the Stealership? They should have it for certain!!!
If for some reason we find that the dealer did NOT install this locking lug and it was installed by someone else who bought them. The dealer may not have said key…but I would think they installed it.
Lets say the dealer did NOT install…and they are aftermarket…and you cannot find a key anywhere… There are MANY ways to get that bugger off. In your instance its the easiest scenario since the hubcap comes OFF and exposes the entire lug nut.
Sears Hardware sells a special Hardened set of sockets designed to get things like this off safely…they look like normal sockets but inside of them there is SHARP cutting teeth or rather a reverse screw type spiral that bites onto whatever rounded off nut or bolt it may come across… Use one of those on that lug and its history. There are MANY other methods to use on that thing as well…Some involving a Hammer and sharp chisel. Another involves an Oxy Acetylene torch and some Vice Grips…
In fact since you can get to it so well a nice big pair of vice grips may just do the trick…they USUALLY are NOT that tight… That is when a knowledgeable mechanic installs them… those keys aren’t that strong so those lockers should not be on there at any kind of Breakneck Foot Lbs of tension.
Let us know what the Stealership says…then we can get into more “Inventive” ways of removing that sucker
That set of sockets that was mentioned doesn’t work . . . at all
However, the air hammer method works, but you’re going to use a pointed bit, to shock them free. It works . . . it goes without saying you don’t want to slip, or you’re going to bugger up the rim
I’ve seen plenty of those antitheft lugs get rounded internally . . . from normal use, and that’s when using the factory key. That is one of the reasons I consider them to be 100% trouble
And yes, even when making 100% sure the key is all the way in and engaged, I’ve seen them round out internally
If I sound disagreeable and combative, that was not my intention
I’m just pointing out my own experiences, which don’t always match with what other guys have to say
Looks like McGard #52, we have master sets of wheel lock keys so we don’t have to look for the customers key. The master set keys are hardened steel and last much longer the the soft customer’s key.
Customers still accuse us of losing their wheel lock key, we have to show them what the key looks like and where their key is stored.
