Cv axle install and now my car won't move

04 mini cooper s
Just replaced driver side cv axle
Took it foe a test drove and now my car won’t move. Please help

Check to see if the axle popped out. Have you checked the trans fluid?

Sounds like it did not lock into place.

So I took everything apart and pulled on the cv and notice it came right out. I revered the Cclip.
And saw knfenimore post and slammed it in once I heard a click I new what I did. Test drove it and everything is now fine. Thanks knfenimore
And steveC76 where can I get a new seal gasket? I think it is leaking not running over to the outside of the trans but there is a miniscule pool on the inner ring

Ok new update the car moves but bow there’s still this clicking noise coming from the left side could it be the spline slipping?

Does it click all the time or just turning? I have seen low cost axles make noise from the first time they were put in. When you drive does the car accelerate normally? If the splines were slipping the car would most likely not move or be very jerky. I would check your axle nut torque also.

As I drive off/accelerate
This popclickgrind noise comes and then goes comes and then goes. When I turn to the right it gets louder. When I go I reverse and turn the wheel back and forth you can here it. As far as low cost axles go does the noise go away after it breaks in?
I definitely didn’t torque down axle nut to spec

I think you’d be better off having it towed to a mechanic shop that will do it right.
Driving it this way could damage the new shaft or the transmission.

You are in over your head by missing so many important steps.

They should replace the seal and install the half shaft properly and I’m sure they will torque it down.


I had a buddy that went through 2 half shafts before he got one that was good and did not click.

Where did he get his 3rd one from.
Ive been reviewing drove axles from rock auto (A1 cardone) and then the next best one.
I want something that will rid me of this issue

@db4690 recommends a particular brand of replacement half shaft, maybe db will chime in on this thread.

I’ve not experience with this task on a Mini, but I’ve done it on a Corolla and VW. As I read through the posts, I thought of two things. One is that the spines where the axel goes into the hub have been damaged. It could be the half shaft spines, or the hub splines, or both. Checking them visually, and for excessive play, would be a good start.

Second is the axel you used as the replacement is faulty or the wrong one for your vehicle. Do you still have the original? If so, check carefully that all the dimensions are the same. A while back folks here were complaining their rebuilt half shafts were the wrong length. And that could cause this symptom. Also the CV joint could be the problem, which would also most likely be a faulty rebuild unit, not something you did.

I’m not sure what your intention is by not properly torqueing the axel nut to spec. I’m assuming you realize that nut must have the correct torque applied before driving the vehicle , it’s a safety issue.

Edit: Just thought of another possibility. You had to dislocate some ball joints probably. Maybe they are not back together correctly. That could cause a clicking sound during acceleration or turns or going over bumps.

EMPI brand axleshafts seem to be okay, if you don’t want to buy from the dealer

I’m not sure if they have anything for Mini, but it should be pretty easy to find out

I’ll say this . . . again . . . about axleshafts

I’ve had good luck having axleshafts rebuilt at those small mom and pop shops which specialize in that kind of thing

I’ve had EXTREMELY bad luck with brand new Chinese axleshafts. It’s not so much the Chinese aspect, but the low quality. Many of them made noise right out of the box, or just didn’t fit correctly, for various reasons.

I’ve had moderate success with store brand remanned axleshafts. Much better luck than store brand new Chinese axleshafts, in any case

As for those mom and pop shops . . . I believe they reuse your existing shaft, if it checks out. And then they replace the actual inner and outer joints and boots. Since they buy wholesale and in bulk, they can do so for a reasonable cost. And a particular joint will work on many applications, so they tend to have what you need in stock

Whatever you do, make sure you get a new axle nut. Some of them actually don’t come with that. And make sure it smoothly threads on. I’ve seen more than a few cases where the threads were very rough, or even cross-threaded, right out of the box

Thanks for the well-informed advice db.

You’re welcome

There’s a shop in OK City that does nothing but replace CV shaft and they reman them on the spot if needed.
They have a huge selection of oversize race balls in varying .001 to .005 over, etc.
They also have a machine that grinds the inner race surfaces to remove any dimples, Oversize balls are then fitted.

Sometimes I suspect those large reman facilities may be doing nothing more than cleaning the units, throwing some new balls into the joints if the races are not dimpled, new boots and grease, and out she goes. Odds are some of those new balls are not fitting the races as tightly as they should be and that’s where the reman knocking, vibration or binding, etc comes in.