Crankshaft pulley bolt

@Tester

I have two 1/2" drive air impacts at work

One is an IR, very similar to the one you listed

The other is the current snap on model

“The problem is, the thing cost $300.00 way back when.”

That’s not necessarily a problem. Professional mechanics constantly have to buy expensive tools, at least if they intend to stay in the business, and don’t want to borrow their colleague’s tool every 5 minutes.

By the way, over the years I’ve worked next to guys that did not want to invest any real money in tools. They were constantly borrowing from everybody else . . . sometimes without asking. It got real old, real fast

One time, my torque wrench wasn’t in my drawer. My colleague told me to “Relax, it’s at home. I’ll bring it tomorrow.”

I told him “Well, that’s a problem, because I need to torque this bolt now, not tomorrow.”

Needless to say, there was the inevitable ugly confrontation about “unauthorized use” of my tools.

I don’t know where that guy is nowadays, but I sure hope he decided to “man up” and get his own stuff, once and for all.

The “funny” thing is . . . one day he showed up in a new car he bought for himself. Yet his toolbox drawers were nearly empty.

What makes more sense . . . buy a brand new car?

Or buy tools, so that you can actually do your job?

Maybe I’m the stupid one . . .

I might be wrong, but I’d venture to guess most pro mechanics who were being paid to do the job would use an air impact similar to the one you listed, versus the rope. Or perhaps a very powerful cordless impact

Again, no disrespect intended to anybody

And I didn’t mean to imply anything negative about you. For the most part, I was just telling some “old war stories” about the business

:smiley:

A commercial grade impact driver is probably available for rent at a home products store like Home Depot or Lowes. The high torque models probably require an air compressor rental too.

I Removed The Harmonic Balancer Bolt And Balancer Without Draining And Removing The Radiator, Only The Shroud, When I Had My Intrepid (Not A Transverse Engine).

Had I tried to get my impact wrench to fit in there, there would not have been enough room. Hold the balancer as suggested by folks above, not by using a strap wrench or something on the pulley. Doing so will damage the bond between the balancer hub and its outer pulley.

CSA

I’m just describing what I use to do to get crank bolts off before I got a good air compressor and impact gun.

The rope trick.

Tester

Is This Bolt Access A Straight Shot Through The Right Front Fender Area With The Wheel/Tire Removed On These Transverse Engine Celicas? There Can’t Be Much Space Between The Harmonic Balancer And The Inner Fender/Bumper Reinforcement, Eh?

CSA

.

yep I have an Ingersol-rand 1/2 inch for home use too. it s about 40 yrs old tho. works like a champ. Just a baby compared to some of the ones I used to work with in the steel shops. I don t think I ve ever seen one go bad, except the one that was dropped from about 40 ft up. replace the vanes every decade or so and keep em oiled…, no problems

The problem is that this person may not have a compressor that will produced the air volume needed. Sometimes those little tank compressors will give you 3-4 good raps and it’s too low on air to continue without letting it build air pressure back up.

Yosemite

yep. when I did my truck I only had a 3/8 electric one. it took like 5 minutes of impacting to finally break loose. then when I tightened it I let it bang for a good long time. I probably marked everything too out of habit.

My nephew called once and his GFs dad was trying to replace ball joints on a truck. They had been banging on that hub nut for an hour. With a little compressor they were not getting far.

The problem was that once the truck was jacked up the lower ball joint just fell apart. There must have been a half a dozen guys trying to figure out how to remove the nut. With the lower ball joint gone, any wrenching just made the knuckle flop all over the place.

I sat and pondered the situation for awhile. I went to my truck and retrieved a 2inch wide ratchet strap. Put the wheel back on, and lowered the truck until a little weight was on that tire and connected one end of the strap to the rear wheel spoke and the other to the front wheel spoke, and tightened it down as good as I could.
It took a lot of leverage and a 180* turn of the breaker bar to get the slack out, but it held it steady enough to break that nut loose.

Yosemite

Is a pro out of the question?

@ Billythekid… Perhaps you misunderstood me… I KNOW she has a Toyota… I referred to a tool that Hondas use on their engines. Hence the Phrase “A -LA Honda Engines” Meaning…there must be a tool to use on the Toyota engine…As there is on Honda engines? That’s what “A-LA Honda Engines” meant in that sentence…

Using the Bump Start method to remove the crank bolt IS INCORRECT… You are telling me to watch what I say because she is a female? Why tell a female the wrong way to do something? I am CERTAIN that a female is also capable of doing something the Incorrect way and getting hurt… Your scolding me about a females abilities because I frowned upon her doing it the wrong way? You almost want me to LET her do it the wrong way because she has the ability and she is female? I’m confused.

I dont care if she is from outer space. Bump Start removal of the crank bolt is actually wrong and dangerous. Is she capable of doing it? SURE…

I recommend using the correct tools and you give me a lesson in gender Political Correctness? Your off base Billy… lets leave it at that. Im telling the OP to use the right tools REGARDLESS OF GENDER…So that she does this the correct way. She can do whatever the heck she wants. Her gender has nothing to do with what she is capable of…SORRY to tell her to do things the proper way.

I have female friends in the military who repair Helicopters… Im not even being dragged into this moronic discussion of what a female is capable of

Are you just looking to TRY and correct someone Bill or is something else bothering you?

Blackbird

@ Honda Blackbird Your quote: “Not something I would have a pretty young lady do right off the bat.” Your statement upset my wife and she is a member of the PC police.

http://community.cartalk.com/discussion/2303548/is-this-board-fading-out#latest Need I say more?

BTK

Yeah and? IT ISNT something I would have a pretty young lady do right off the bat…Nor and Ugly young lady either. Nor an Old man…or a young Boy… I would RATHER her use the right tools and do the job safely… Whats your point here? You are almost disappointed that I didnt let her do this the dangerous way…because I mentioned she was a female. You want me to let her do it in a dangerous fashion…Because she is a female…AND has the ability. Great point to make…

Enough said?

Wow really? Really latched onto that “pretty young lady” comment I guess… Well just read the followup explanation. I also DO see her point…

Its best to stay out of this one… I THINK anyone can understand what I meant… Lets not go overboard and read too far between the lines here. Honestly I shouldn’t have even responded

This is kinda ridiculous…

anyway, after 20 yrs of fabbing structural steel, and being a material handling and tool handling standout, I m not exactly a scaredy cat. you learn to respect life and limb tho…, after you ve seen them lost due to lack of care , expertise, and general safety rule adherence.

overconfidence kills, it even kills the old hands sometimes…

Exactly… Doing things the wrong way is Universal and affects Universally.

FWIW, I’m a shade tree mechanic not a pro but I happen to have the factory Toyota pulley holding tools so they do exist. There are different ones depending on the application. They consist of a circular/cylindrical tool that bolts to the pulley and a handle used to provide leverage to immobilize the pulley. The handle part is the same for all of them. They work great but a bit expensive though. I bought mine through OTC/SPX which supplies most of the special tools found in a Toyota factory service manual. OTC/SPX also supplies factory special tools for other manufacturers such as GM, Ford, Subaru and others.

That said, I also have a couple of aftermarket brand tools that BillytheKid mentioned. I’ve used the Schley tool (with the bolts) and it works just fine. I had the factory tools but I wanted to test this. There is nothing wrong with the homemade tools that keith and BillytheKid made. Those are good ideas but they probably have more fabricating skills than I.

I’m not getting into the argument over which is the best or most cost effective method discussed but just putting in my 2 cents about what special tools are available. Use/buy them or not. It’s up to you.

Also, as some of you know some Toyota crank bolts can be quite tight like the Honda ones. For removal I usually use a 4’ cheater pipe on a 1/2" dr. breaker bar. I use a 1 1/2" i.d. pipe to reduce flex. I recommend sliding the pipe all the way down the breaker bar to the drive end again to reduce flex in the overall setup and to reduce the possibility of bending the breaker bar handle. I use a single (not stacked) extension (20" to 24" long) to reduce flex in the setup. The extension is supported at the fulcrum by a jack stand. I use a 6 ton stand because a 3 ton stand isn’t tall enough. It’s the same setup I use on Hondas. On non-transverse engines (like pickups and older rear wheel drive Toyotas) I change the setup as necessary. Naturally, when installing the bolt you use a torque wrench. Of course, this isn’t the only way to do this manually but it’s just how I do it.

“Your statement upset my wife and she is a member of the PC police.”

If Billy’s wife is upset, perhaps she should chime in herself, versus having hubby do her “dirty work” for her

:triumph:

Toyota crank bolts as hard as a Honda? Never seen one.