Short version 2001 T&C LX with 3.3 Flex fuel.Bought in 2004 w/ 37k. Tran. fluid and filter changed at approx. 50k as maintainence. Currently 71k. Intermittent limp mode, slight slip and then bump and stays in same gear, max 45 mph without rpm’s climbing without speed increase. Level and color of fluid good. SEL is on but as of last week it was “small evap leak” aka gas cap. Will stop by Checker and read again on Sat. Any and all thoughts appreciated to have an idea and I will post codes on Sat. Tommorrow is pay day and wondering if I should let wife fill gas or save for parts 
No edit feature??? short version refered to story not wheelbase. Forgot the comma
You need a tranny service to correct the mis-fits and starts.
The tranny is dropping into limp mode to save the tranny but still allow you to get to a shop.
Pulling down the pan will allow sight access to the gears plus the opportunity to replace the fluid and filter.
I had a '94 Voyager a while ago that had second and third gears chipped and after replacing the tranny had no more problem.$$$$
Yours may not have gear trouble.
Thank you Roadrunner for the reply. I can handle a pan drop and filter change but what do I look for with the gears?? Thanks
Homer,
Slipping is definately not good. With an issue like this, you need to take it to a trans shop and have the computer scanned. You dont need to just read the codes, the TCM needs to be scanned and CVI’s read. This requires more than a code reader.
transman
Have the Power Control Module PCM scanned for codes by a transmission technician. If the transmission has gone into ‘limp home’ mode recently there should be a code set explaining the reason. You may have an intermittant sensor that is giving an erroneous reading to the computer. Replacing that sensor could cure your problem. Then the technician should look at the ‘fill numbers’ for the various clutchs and see if there is one or more out of spec. From you ‘short version’ this sounds like a possibility. Finally, a pressure check should be done to see if there is significant leakage to any of the clutches.
This diagnosis will steer you in the correct direction as to where the problem lies. Let us know what is found; what codes you found; and any other diagnostic information.
Transmission shop I and others have used and trusted is closed on weekends. The following are codes I was able to get from the scanner at parts store, description is cut and paste from Alldata:
P0455-EVAP LEAK MONITOR LARGE LEAK DETECTED
P0442-EVAP LEAK MONITOR MEDIUM (.040) LEAK DETECTED
P0456-EVAP LEAK MONITOR SMALL LEAK DETECTED
P0720 - OUTPUT SPEED SENSOR ERROR
P0700-EATX CONTROLLER DTC PRESENT
P0731 - GEAR RATIO ERROR IN 1ST
P0732 - GEAR RATIO ERROR IN 2ND
I know the gas cap may cause the first three and will try petroleum jelly on seal as suggested in other posts. I have currently erased codes and during the 3 errands on the way home, 3 shut down and starts over 5 miles, have not had MIL light. I know it may take longer/more cycles and when it relights will read again. Fluid is full and color is good. Any possibility I may be lucky enough for just a sensor?? I know a trip to a trans shop is in my future but would like to be confident I am not being oversold based on the Chrysler reputation. Even a trusted shop could find it easier to reccomend a swap vs. part. Thank you all for your time.
Homer,
Well, as far as the EVAP problem goes, if it was determined to be the gas cap then those codes are probably there from back then. You just need to reset the codes. Auto Zone can do that. As far as the transmission goes, a faulty output speed sensor WILL cause the other codes you show. I would start by changing BOTH the input (Turbine) and output speed sensors, reset the codes and go from there. Both the speed sensors are located on the left side of the transmission (Behind the radiator) they require a 1" socket. Both sensors should cost around $50 together. Both sensors need to be changed together because they both work together. The computer takes both the turbine speed and the output shaft speed readings and calculates them into a gear ratio, then compares the readings to pre programmed ratios. This is how the computer knows which gear the transmission is in. If either sensor is faulty and the computer gets some erronious information, it will put the transmission in 3rd gear limp mode and throw codes.
transman
Thank you very much. Codes already have been erased.
TRANSMAN, stupid question. How do I know if I have a 3 or 4 speed. Shifter shows D,3,L.
Its a 4 speed… A-604 transmission…
transman
Thank you once again. I will get parts and post back, probably this week end. Have a nice turkey day.
Now I’m getting stressed. I changed both sensors on Wed. nite as well as new gas cap. Today I went to Checker and erased the codes. The speedometer stays at zero and it was still in limp, it didn’t trigger MIL until almost home though ??? I drove in parking lot but light didn’t come on and no codes present before leaving parts store. It seems a trip to tranny shop on Monday is certain. Is there something I am missing ?? Input and output were Niehoff Brand. P,S. van was not driven until today after changing parts.
You didn’t switch the sensors around did you? They are different?
~Michael
I was careful of that. Matched one at a time while changing. One round and one hex. Good point though, have had that happen a long time ago with plug wires LOL
They wont interchange, one has fine threads and the other has coarse threads where they screw into case. How are your wire connectors looking? I always use the Chrysler sensors after using two aftermarket ones which were bad out of the box. My scanner showed one input sensor at 33,000 RPM’s Let the trans shop look at it. Was the speedo working before you changed the sensors??
transman
The speedo worked but would jump around. It would peg at 120 going around a corner from dead stop. I spoke to a customer of mine who manages a Goodyear tire and auto, he’s serviced vehicles of mine when I couldn’t, he thinks internal, possible bad sensor or who knows over the phone LOL. I didn’t have the codes with me. Roadside assist. will cover tow to shop, guess I’ll know in a few days. Thanks for the help. At least I saved by doing struts myself over the summer…
First and foremost. THANK YOU EVERYONE, ESPECIALLY TRANSMAN. I just got the call…PCM is bad and not accepting sensor info. The sensors tested fine and PCM should have 8/80K warranty. Thankfully vehicle is at 7/71K 
I did get the rear liftgate fixed and an alignment done. Towing was covered and will be covered between shop and dealer.