well ok, time to get this one open. Chevy s-10, 4.3 vortec, LS, auto, 4wd, 4 tires and brown. Driving on highway, truck “stumbled” hard, still running, put in neutral, rolled a few hundred feet, died. started right back up after a few minutes. 2 days later truck “stumbled” again, still running but no power, pushed the gas pedal, nothing, rolled a few hundred feet, died, didnt restart. The mechanic said it started fine the first time but not the 2nd time. When it died for me I thought the gauges were on, the mechanic said the gauges were all off when he ran it the 3rd time on a test when it died. He said there was plenty of fuel pressure. His suggestion was a body control unit that might be going bad or a sensor that coordinated the actions of the crankshaft and timing. Another suggested it might simply be a bad ground that can cause all this mayhem. I’ll check the grounds. I h ave a chevy s-10 from 1994, 235,000 on it, runs fine, never a problem but it needed a clutch eventually, 4 exhaust systems and few other minor items, love that truck. What about the 2000?
The crank sensor is the first suspect when an engine stumbles and dies with no Check Engine light.
If you can figure out a way to check for spark at a spark plug when it cranks but won’t start, that would be where I’d start. That will get you going down the correct path to a diagnosis. The replace stuff until it’s fixed method will usually work eventually for a problem like this, but the problem is you can run out of money before you run out of ideas for things to replace. Get a proper professional diagnosis then you can replace what needs replacing yourself if you like.
There is spark, if you put ether in the carb it starts until the fog is gone. I would not replace til it is fixed, bad idea always. The mechanic said it would likely be the control mod but could not be sure, he is busy and cant take the full day or more to trace the prob fully. Another suggestion was that perhaps the ground path is disrupted or going bad, will work on that tomorrow. I will look at my chiltons to see where the crank sensor resides as well. If you have more info I’ll take it.
If the spark is ok the problem isn’t the crank sensor. With a failed crank sensor there’s no spark. Since you have spark and it runs briefly with starter spray it must be a fuel problem. Sincethe fuel pressure is ok, it is probably that the injectors aren’t being pulsed for some reason. There’s a test gadget called a “noid light” that makes it easy to test for injector pulsing.
Does this engine use that spider ass’y for the fuel system? If so that’s a pretty common problem posted about here. You can use the forum search feature to see what other’s have to say about it. Click the search icon, upper right on this page.
you don’t have a carb . . .
I know what it has
But op said it has a carb . . .
Oh yeah fuel injection, the other had the throttle body. Hey so just thought Id offer that I went through the grounding system piece by piece, redid and cleaned all the ground points, the one from the tank to the frame was riveted and corroded, repaired that one as well, seems to be running fine now. Something soooo simple it seemed. Thanks.