A tandem-solenoid starter that enables the engine to restart more quickly and more smoothly – even if the engine hasn’t come to a complete stop
An electrically driven transmission auxiliary hydraulic pressure pump that keeps the fluid in the six-speed automatic circulating and primed for immediate take-off when the driver removes his or her foot from the brake pedal
Larger, 12-volt absorbent glass mat (AGM) primary battery – which delivers up to four times the typical life cycle of a conventional battery – and a small, auxiliary 12-volt AGM battery
Dual-battery isolation module that ensures both batteries are properly charged and the primary battery always has a sufficient charge to start the vehicle
I have no idea how a “tandem-solenoid starter” works.
“I have no idea how a “tandem-solenoid starter” works.”
Conventional starters cannot restart the engine
until the engine has completely stopped, whereas
the Tandem Solenoid Starter can restart the engine even while it
is coasting (coming to a complete stop).
A tandem-solenoid starter that enables the engine to restart more quickly and more smoothly – even if the engine hasn’t come to a complete stop
Oy. Restarting a motor that hasn’t yet stopped. I’ll retire to Bedlam.
All this on n off n on n off garbage trying to save a bit of fuel is unfortunately paralleled by certain types of light switch that constantly cycle expensive fluorescent bulbs, shortening life while supposedly saving a little electricity. I’ve seem some that shut off, and then the sensor interprets it as motion, and turns them back on! Sad.
I’ve heard of a few complaints – not a lot, but enough to raise some eyebrows – about these start/stop systems occasionally failing, refusing to re-start, and stranding the owner. Good idea to do a little research to see if any of these complaints apply to a car you are considering to purchase w/that feature.
The entire starting system has been redesigned to accomplish this…Engine lubrication is not an issue, everything is wet with oil, the only “dry start” is the first one in the morning…
Even the first start in the morning is not as dry as people seem to think. Surface tension (capillary effect) prevents oil from draining out of the bearings and the journals are floating on a wedge of oil before the crank even makes a quarter of a full revolution, even without oil pressure.
I believe the real culprit in accelerated cold engine wear is the rich fuel air mixture given the engine when cold. The excess fuel acts as a solvent that scrubs the oil film off the cylinder walls, and also, that’s when condensation of the water in the exhaust gasses mixes with the oil and forms acids that attack metal.
Here I have a photo of a cut apart spin on oil filter for my motorcycle. The round blue rubber thing is the anti-drainback valve that prevents reverse oil flow through the filter.
I like to pre-fill the new oil filter with fresh oil before installing it on the bike. The anti-drainback valve prevents that though, forming an air lock that prevents oil from filling the filter. I have found that I can completely pre-fill the filter by temporarily defeating the anti-drainback valve by sticking something like a toothpick through one of the small holes where oil enters the filter. It has to be something smooth, you don’t want to cut the rubber that the anti-drainback valve is made of.
After an oil and filter change, the oil light goes out after a second or so instead of around 10 seconds or so with a filter that is not pre-filled.
From then on, the oil light goes out while cranking even before the engine starts.
B.L.E., I agree, but I would add to that the fact that the internal parts aren’t to their optimum operating dimensions when cold, exascerbating that fuel-rich blowby that you refer to as well as exascerbating wear.
You should hear the typical engine start at -40F! It’d make your teeth grind.
Are there any oil filters commonly available that don’t have anti-drain-back valves? I always look at the filter I’m about to buy to see if it has one, and it always seems to have a rubbery thing, lining the hole of the filter, which I presume is the visible rim of anti-drain-back. If I’m correct and it is that, I guess I’ve never seen an oil filter at the retail auto parts store that didn’t have one.
Cartridge filters don’t have anti-drainback or bypass valves, because engines that use cartridge filters have bypass and anti drainback valves built into the engine.
This photo shows the bypass valve. It’s function is to open up and allow unfiltered oil to reach the engine if the filter element is too stopped up to flow oil.
