I have a 2000 Toyota Camry with a V6 and 3.0 liter engine with just under 110,000 miles on it.
Here is my problem. The “Check Engine” light came on about a few months ago. I had it checked out, and I was told it was a charcoal canister. I had it replaced, and the light went off and on for a few days before going out for a few weeks, and then the light came back on.
I had it checked out again, and I found out that I had four EVAP codes and an oxygen sensor code. Well, I had the fuel cap replaced and checked, and there were no leaks on the gas head. There was some rust on the gas head, but the rust was removed. I had the oxygen sensors replaced, and the light still came back on. I am getting to the point where I’m thinking that the damn light is malfunctioning.
Now, I noticed that there were some gas stains on the tank itself, but I didn’t think it was an issue. I am thinking maybe I need to replace the gas valve that goes into the tank, but I’m not sure.
I am hoping that someone can help me out. I have spent close to $1,000 in repairs, and I just want to knock the light out the cheapest way out.
Thanks very much.
I should also mention that since I’ve had the sensors replaced, I was told the EVAP codes disappeared too, but I don’t really know what to believe, anymore.
You have a 10 year-old car with 110,000 miles. You have to expect some worn-out parts. Get the codes read again.
If you are not required to pass an emissions test just put some black tape over the light. Millions of drivers can’t be wrong…You have spent enough money to save the planet…
A possible answer for you lies in the status given to all codes (some are higher level that others) and what monitoring systems are disabled when a high level code is set. Once you fix the high level code the monitor kicks in and the lower level codes start popping up.
Get the codes read again first, if the evap codes come back then inspect the fuel filler neck. It is not uncommon that the filler neck has rusted, aka fuel stain, and you are getting a vapor/gas leak. The EVAP system performs a pressure check, if the system senses a “leak” then the light comes on.
Get the codes read again. Some auto part stores will do it for FREE!
Post the actural codes here (Like P01234)
I Guess We’ll Have To Wait For Some Specific Codes And/Or More Information.
But that won’t stop me from asking some questions. Was this car checked out and worked on at a dealer or an independent who had access to Toyota’s TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins)? You know, some stuff on cars is sort of complicated, sometimes.
Here’s an example. On car model’s like your’s, 2000 Camry 3.0L, with codes like PO440, PO44, PO446, a faulty CCV CSV (Canister Closed Valve Control Swithing Valve) could be a possible suspect, but not positively. Some cars had valves that were faulty in production and production changes made a more viable part. There are procedures for checking.
Sometimes in an attempt to save a buck, we spend extra money. Penny Wise, Pound Foolish. I guess what I mean is to just be sure that whoever is working on these particular problems is able to access information for your specific vehicle and problem(s) and knows how to use it for properly diagnosing the situation.
Changing oil or replacing a muffler bearing is one thing, fixing something that even requires a manufacturer to send out special information to it’s own service departments is another. This could be the “another”. Is a dealer working on it? Yes? You may need a different dealer. No? You may need a dealer.
the charcoal canister leads me to believe the OP had a habit of topping off the tank when they fueled up. And the EVAP and other sensors also point me in that direction.
BS is correct. I used to top it off, but when I found out about the canister, I stopped doing it.
Common: I had the canister replaced by a guy who knows about cars, but later, I had the sensor replaced by an ASE certified mechanic who is also Toyota-certified. He also looked at the canister and he told me it was fine and put in correctly.
73240: That’s what I meant by gas head. The gas filler neck was rusted, and the rust was removed, and we checked it for leaks, and there were none.
The stains on the tank combined with the rusted filler neck and the EVAP codes lead me to suspect that you have a rust hole leak somewherein the system. The best way to find these is with a smoke test. Smoke is pumped into the void areas of the fuel system and comes out through the leak.
NOTE: if that gas staining is indicating a miniscule leak in an area that a full tank normally submerses, the smoke test will be more effective if done with a tank low on gas.
I strongly urge against taping over the light, as somone suggested. Not only does this not correct the problem, it also renders a critical “early warning system” totally inoperative for all other failures.