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Changing high pressure line from power steering pump to rack

My hubs and I are attempting to change the high pressure hose…and we can’t get the new one in (hubs ended up cutting the old one out). Is there any way to get the new line in on our own? Or do we have to take it in to the shop? The car is up on ramps–I suppose we can put it on jack stands, but we don’t have a lift. Would taking the tire(s) off help at all? Any tips or recommendations?


Is your husband using line wrenches?

Definitely put the car on jack stands and remove the tires. That will give you much more room to work.

You will probably find that the ramps get in your way far more than the jack stands. And jack stands are generally safer, also.

Start the first few threads by hand, before using the line wrench to tighten the fitting. Make sure you don’t lose the captive o-ring when installing the new hose.

Model year

Sometimes a crows foot wrench is required to tighten the line at the rack & pinion assembly.


So we have the tools, but we can’t position the hose–we can’t even get the new hose into the car. The only way we could get the old one out was by cutting it out. So taking the tires off should help maneuver the new one in? So in other words, we need to bring the new hose in through the bottom, right? Or is there some other part we need to take out of the car first before we can get the hose in?

Would it help if I took pictures?

Pictures would help since every, and I mean every, car is different in line routing. Just make sure the new line is the same length and shape as the old one and route it exactly the same way. Sometimes repair work is like a puzzle because the car was not built the way you are trying to assemble it.

What kind of car is it? I recall the Ford Taurus being the most outrageous engineering joke for placement of the power steering line that I ever dealt with.

Lets start with year, make and model so we know what you are working on, if you are still working on it…

What kind of car are you working on? If we know the specific application someone here may have some specific tips.

@"Rod Knox"‌ yeah, the first few you did were a pain, but once you figured it out I bet you’d have both lines done in about 45 min. Certain jobs I miss, especially on flat rate. Ford 3.8 head gaskets, Taurus heater cores and power steer lines, Honda timing belts, GM lower intakes. It was rare not to cut book time in half on those.

Most jobs got easier after figuring out some tricks but you mentioned the Ford 3.8 heads and on rear wheel drive LTD Jrs the AC box made for a real PITA that I never worked around to R&R the heads. And those Taurus heaters were a cinch for a young mechanic I had who was very tall and double jointed.

It’s a 2004 Volvo S60. I’ll try to get pictures up tomorrow.

No disrespect meant, but if this challenge has you stumped and if you (or hubby) cut the old line off because you couldn’t access it without thinking about how you’ll get the new one on, I recommend you have it towed to a qualified shop. It does not need to be a dealer.

These are the brakes you’re trying to fix. If a car doesn’t start, it can ruin your day. If it doesn’t stop, it can ruin your life. Take it to a competent mechanic. Please.

Brakes?? It’s a power steering hose…

Umm, @TSM, it’s a power steering hose, not brakes.

We’ve already contacted a couple of shops, and know towing it there is likely. We were just hoping someone on here would have insight or tips about getting it in before we did that, hence posting on here.

And it’s not the brakes, it’s the power steering hose.

Volvo = all bets are off. A friend of a guy that worked for me worked on Volvo trucks and used to complain about having to pull the engine for simple stuff.

Take a look at the part

now imagine what needs to be removed to get at that part.

Good grief

Looks like the mechanic will need to remove a bunch of stuff AND it wouldn’t hurt to be a contortionist, also . . .

And he’ll probably get badly burnt and/or cut

A definite “gravy” job


Now you can see why the car makers are moving towards electric power steering…

Yeah, @Rod knox, this is what we were afraid of.

@DB4690, why will he get burnt?? I’d feel horrible if anyone got hurt!


In most cases, the mechanic does not have the luxury to wait hours for the engine and all components to cool down

That means replace the part with everything hot, and get burnt and cut

Since you cut the hose out days ago, nobody will get burnt, but as for cuts . . . based on the layout of that line, there are probably many opportunities

Mechanics get cut, bruised and burnt quite often. It’s just part of the business. It’s often unavoidable. If any mechanic says it never happened to him, it’s either the very first day of his career, or he’s lying like a rug