Car wont start when it is not hot outside, like very hot

Maintenance/Repairs
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possible but im pretty sure the plug wires are not that old on it although i will see what i can do to test, thing is a spark plug short seems unlikely since i can get it to fire up using starter fluid it just wont stay on.

It is a lincoln dunno how I ended up at Bentley lol. Def injection no carb. Today I decided to test the Schrader and sure enough no fuel at the rail absolutely no pressure at all. So I’m pretty sure it has to do with a feedback to the tank and or a faulty pump control module. The pump obviously works fine but it is not receiving power in the morning. Only other way I could test is if I manually wired a 12 volt source to test the pump sans engine. Lol if it works i may wire a bypass to it for a while with a power switch cause a control module is like $200 yet again if that’s all I could swing that soon.

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If you included all the pertinent facts in your original post you would have received better replies.

1 Like
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On most vehicles you can hear the fuel pump running if you listen close when you turn the key to the on position , not start position .

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have you checked fuel pressure when it won’t start? Sounds very much like this could be a failing fuel pump.

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Sunday morning i kinda did. the best i could do is push the sharder valve on the fuel rail, nothing came out. As far as i have read it should be pressurized to around 50psi or above and it was not. But today it started up at 11:15pm it was about 85deg outside and i did need to hold the pedal until the car settled an idle, but what it does is jumps about 2k rpm every second and half and drops back down to 1500 rpm. Its not a “sputter” like most would consider but i would call it more of a pulse that speeds up until it decides to hold an rpm. I almost feel it may be a CPS at this point but im really just taking shots in the dark. I just dont want to spend $300 to $400 on a pump to find out it was a $60 sensor lol or a $150 control module. And alot of parts make sense that heat would effect it sans the pump which should be pretty cool relative to the vehicle in its location anyway.
Could i wire a 12v wire to bypass the cars power to the pump and use that to test it? Would it be possible to wire it from some where that i dont have to drop the tank to get to it first as well like the emergency reset button? So say i remove the fuse for the pump and wire up a 12v source with an on off toggle that i can just switch on before i start the car?