Car won't start. No turnover. Help!

mazda
mazda6

#1

i have a 2005 Mazda 6 that i just got 2 days ago (11/27/16). so far it has died 8 times and wouldn’t start up again and there’s no turnover when i try to start it. the battery is fine, 12.8V, and an auto shop tested the starter and said it was cranking normally with 11.4V. The charging system test came out with no problems so why is it not starting?


#2

So let’s get this straight.

You’re driving along, the engine dies, and when you go to start it nothing happens?

How do you eventually get the engine to start again?

Tester


#3

the first time it started dying was when i would stop at a stop sign and then shift to first gear to go and it would snub out and not start. the only way to start it is to pop the clutch. it started fine when it was parked otherwise but today after school i went to go start it and it wouldn’t turn over or anything. i pushed the clutch all the way to the floor, tried starting it in neutral and first gear and nothing worked. i thought it might be a security thing since it had anti-theft so i got out of the car, locked all the doors, unlocked them and then got back in and tried it again and nothing. jiggled the steering wheel, played with the gas pedal… my friend said it might be an ignition or ignition relay problem or maybe the clutch isn’t registering. i’m just not liking the fact i’m getting screwed out of $4,000.


#4

The stalling out might be caused by a dirty electronic throttle body.

http://www.automotix.net/usedautoparts/2005-mazda-6-throttle_body-inventory.html

The throttle body controls the engine’s idle speed under all conditions.

Have the throttle body cleaned by someone who knows how the clean electronic throttle bodies.

The not starting problem might be caused by a defective clutch pedal interlock safety switch.

This switch prevents the starter from operating unless the clutch pedal is depressed.

One way to check for a defective switch is, unplug the electrical connector to the switch, insert a jumper wire in the electrical connector, place the transmission in neutral, and then try starting the engine.

If the engine starts, the problem is with the switch.

Tester


#5

Tester gives solid advice.

But, if what he says doesn’t pan out, it could be a defective anti-theft device. I have had them go bad before and cause some of the issues you describe. I had to completely remove the defective alarm system, clean up all the wiring, and was good to go.

Start with the clutch pedal interlock safety switch, though. Much more common than a defective alarm.


#6

thank you guys so much!


#7

But it isn’t cranking normally now, right? So the logical conclusion is that it must not now be getting the 11.4 volts during attempted cranking. So something must have changed between the time the shop tested it and now. The shop test, the 11.4 volt thing, shows the starter isn’t the problem, so you got that going for you. Your starter is probably ok.

hmmm … the above ideas are good ones. It seems like you have more than one problem going on. The stalling problem probably isn’t caused by the same reason as the no-crank. I’ll focus on the no-crank here. I presume when you say “no-turnover” you are meaning that normal rrr rrr rrr sound isn’t happening for some reason with the key in start. That’s called a “no-crank” in mechanic’s lingo.

Often when no-cranks occur this time of the year when the ambient temperature is cooling off quickly, the problem is the battery or the battery connections. That’s where I’d start. Ask your shop to clean the battery connections. The other thing is that battery overall condition can’t be determined just by a voltage test. It has to be determined under load when drawing a lot of current, usually that’s done with a battery load test. Ask your shop to do one for you. That’s something they do all the time. Doesn’t cost much. Best to eliminate the battery as a potential cause of no-cranks before going down other paths.

The quickest solution to no-cranks is usually to measure the voltage at the two starter terminals (terminal to starter case, for both the B+ and S terminals) during attempted cranking. Both should measure 10.5 volts or more with the key in start. At a time you have this no crank problem, what are the two measurements?


#8

As @GeorgeSanJose noticed, I too read that the engine would not even turn over .

First if you bought this from a dealer, they may be willing to fix this problem with no charge to you. It is in their best interest to help you out to keep their good name. Call the dealership and complain, but be nice about it. You catch more flies with honey than vinegar.

Battery connections are the first place to begin when you have a “No Crank” situation. Even
if you have a new battery, if the connections are loose, dirty or corroded, you will not be
allowing the full flow of current to pass thru the connections. The connection may be
enough to turn on the lights, but not enough for the huge flow that is needed to operate the
starter. This is where many people say that they know the battery is good….”because the
lights come on”. This is no more a battery test than licking a 9volt battery. It only tells you that there is electricity…not how many volts or the amperage that flows from the battery.
Jump starting may have wiggled the terminal just enough to allow the current to pass and start the engine, but tomorrow you have the same problem.

First remove the cables from the battery and use a wire brush to remove any corrosion and dirt from the battery posts and the cable terminals. There is a tool with a round wire brush for this purpose, found at any auto parts store for less than $10 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/kd-tools-terminal-battery-brush-kdt201/25980576-P?searchTerm=terminal+brush.
Before connecting the cables, apply a coating of di-electric grease to the battery posts this will keep oxygen away from the connection so that it will not corrode as fast.

It is just as important that the other end of the cables also have a clean connection. Remove the positive cable from the battery again so that you do not short anything out. Follow both cables to their far ends, remove this connection and wire brush the connection and the cable terminal clean and retighten these connections.

If there was work done recently, there may have been an “engine to body” ground that was not installed following the work. These grounds normally run from the rear of the engine to the firewall and are uninsulated and most are a braided wire. If any of these are found unattached…reattach them.
Remember….this is not a “Sherman Tank” don’t over tighten the connections.
Tight…tight………………too tight…broke!!!

Yosemite