If your having a muffler shop replace convertor just have them fix the heat shield while they have vehicle.
never thought of that lol.
Walker non-carb conv is 175. Carb compliant is 240. Mopar is 500 and it is not carb compliant. Plus mopar part has 200 core charge.
Does your vehicle have California emissions?
If so, does your state require any emissions repairs to use carb compliant components?
That said, I consider Walker exhaust components to be signifcantly inferior to factory parts. I have personally experienced that they don’t last nearly as long.
If you’re not planning on keeping the car more than another 2-3 years, then it shouldn’t matter
i suppose the dodge dealer would have a carb compliant conv especially if you live in california. but the main point is your neon is not a long lived car. i think it is even lower than a kia or hyundai. i know the 2000 vintage neons were disposable. any better in 2005? i think they dropped the neon and came out with the new dart. at least 10% better.
That’s not much of an improvement, IMO 
Ok so I got the converter changed and also had and oil change done as well. They didn’t reset my codes, so I just went and unhooked the positive and negative from the battery for 25 minutes and then hooked them back up to see maybe is that would reset the computer. No luck, still will not go past 2500 rpms while i am driving i even gave it all going up the street and nothing. When I checked the codes after removing the battery there is only one code now it is P0340.
Anything else it could be? Could it possibly be transmission? I can get up to 90kmph and after that it wont go anywhere. Any suggestions would help thanks.
You will have to correct the cam sensor problem to get the computer out of limp mode.
Why did you replace the catalytic converter?
Converter was clogged bad. Mechanic said it needed to be replaced and could have been the issue.
what is your history with car? did you ever own it when it ran good? or has it always been kinda sketchy?
Always had something wrong with it. Was just a sensor when I bought it. Now all this.
I went and checked my codes again. There is more than I posted a few hours ago they are.
P0016
P0132
P0344
P0340
3 of them moves towards the camshaft and crankshaft sensors. I’m not sure where to go after this as mechanic costs are now getting high. I am going to take it to a electrical mechanic and see if he can figure out the issue and hopefully it doesn’t cost me my life savings. If you guys have anymore suggestions I would greatly appreciate it and thanks for all of the continuing help I am receiving.
The cam sensor is inexpensive and worth a try. It is located on the end of the cylinder head near the battery. Removing the battery will allow easy access to the sensor.
On some vehicles when the cam sensor fails the computer fires the spark plug every time the crankshaft hits tdc. That means it fires twice as often as is necessary, b/c only firing on the compression stroke is necessary. The upside of this is it allows you to keep driving the car even with a faulty cam sensor. The downside might be that double firing can overheat & damage the ignition coils. That may be the reason there’s an rpm limit when the cam sensor signal is missing. You probably have coil on plug technology, and replacing all those coils would probably be quite expensive. The rev limit may be saving you a lot of money.
I wanted to thank everyone for there help and prompt responses. I have replaced the cam sensor and my issue seems to be resolved at the moment. There is only one code now and that P0132 which is O2 Oxygen Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank1, Sensor1). This doesn’t cause any issues with driving. I will be replacing it soon though. Do any of you nice people know where it is?
Google “2005 dodge neon o2 sensor location” and you get many pictures of its location and even how to replace it.
Thanks, leon, for letting us know you’ve found and been able to fix! Best wishes.