It seems Honda’s are easy to get in especially older models.
I am thinking of an alarm - is this a good idea? If so what features do I need in this alarm?
I appreciate a recommendation for a product.
Are bestbuy, frys electronics, good place to have them installed?
Thank you
I would not bother with an alarm. Have you noticed anytime a car alarm goes off nobody even turns thier head to look. IMOO it is a waste of money.
Don’t leave anything in the car or it will attract thieves. Most break-ins happen when people see that a woman has gotten out and left her purse inside. They grab and run before anybody can respond. Those side windows break easily.
If Acura Integra are easy to enter, how about have a Lock smith to change the lock to something difficult ?
Will it do the trick?
We see far too many examples of problems with alarms locking the owners out and such that I would not even want an OEM alarm. let alone a after market system.
If you really want something that will help, have your mechanic instal a simple switch that will turn off a critical part like the fuel pump. The bad guys will not be looking for something like that. However make sure it is a good mechanic who will use reliable parts or you may find yourself locked out.
The best deal I know of was the old fuel switch on the old VW Bugs. You moved it with your foot. it had a normal position, off position and reserve. The car did not have a fuel gauge and only VW drivers knew about the switch.
I should add that the best part of that VW system is they could start and drive the car, but it would stop dead in a couple of blocks, leaving them in the middle of the street blocking traffic and no idea what the problem is. Not likely to hang around to find out, 
The places you suggest could be a good place,just depends on who they have employed. Don’t expect others to respond to the alarm. Are you planning on just a siren or are you planning on a fuel or ignition or starter disable option? (I say just the starter disable) Are you planning on connecting to your power locks? (perhaps you don’t have power locks) Check out range of remote transmitters,programing procedure for both new remotes and what happens when battery power (in the car) is either lost or interupted, and replacement cost of missing remotes (along with reprogram cost).
A nice feature is called "valet mode’ (you can turn the alarm off) Decide if you want the alarm to self arm or if you want only manual arming
If you’re concerned enough to add on an alarm,
you must get one that pages you.
As others have pointed out, most “parking lot noise makers” are ignored and you’re usually too far away to hear, and wouldn’t know if it’s yours if you do hear. And, you can’t be racing out of every store every time you hear someone locating their car with their panic button.
Most cars are easy to get into because the electric door lock circuit is always live and a simple hanger between the door weatherstrip and roof corner allows the unlock to be easily pushed.
A switch to disarm this circuit, or an alarm system that disarms this circuit will keep out most oportunistic thieves.
If they really want in, they’re gonna get in ! They’ll have all the right slim-jim break-in tools or they’ll just bust out a window.
Excellent suggestions - thanks a bunch.
old fuel switch on the old VW Bugs
Are there any places I can acquire these - I never had a VW so my knowledge is limited. Which year are these cars made?
Are there any internet sites of VW bug fans?
Or special shops?
If you want to protect your car on the cheap, do what I did: I had a VW Jetta I wanted to protect, so I went to the dealer and picked up a rear defrost switch just like the one that was already in the dashboard. Installing it involved pushing out an unused blank cover and pushing the new switch in. I then pulled the fuse for the fuel pump. On the hot side of the opening where the fuse was, I ran an inline fuse holder. Install the fuse you pulled into it. Then wire the other end of the fuseholder to the switch. The other side of the switch gets wired into the other (load) side of the opening where the fuse came out of.
You now have a kill switch that required no hacking of the factory wiring. Just remember to shut off your new switch when you leave your car.
wire the other end of the fuseholder to the switch
Did you solder it?
Good idea.
Nope. I like the solderless crimp terminals. They’re reliable and easy to use.
I have not looked, but I would expect there to be a number of web sites. You are likely to have some sort of local club if you live in a larger city.
Ok
So if I run the wire from the switch to the fuse (which was removed) - how could I use those crimp terminals ?
Or the inline fuse holder helps use the crimp terminals?
I have used crimp terminals but I usually crimped it on a wire only - so that’s where the confusion coming from.
That is between your eyes and your cannections.
If your switch has screw cannections, choose an eye terminal.
If it has flat smooth cannections, choose a spade terminal.
You’ll see as you collect the items to install which terminals are needed.
What kind of connection is on the Fuse box?
That is what I am wondering about?
Pull the fuse from the fuse box and choose the matching terminals.
An ‘atc’ fuse will use 3/16" flat spade to plug in where the fuse came out, but an ‘atm’ size fuse only takes a 1/8" spade.
You really do have to just look and see, as you begin to do the job.
Got it - thanks
This is what I did. Be sure you connect the wire with the fuse holder into the hot terminal of the fuse block (has power with key on) where you removed the original fuse.
“The Club” or a similar steering-wheel lock that makes the steering wheel impossible to turn works as well as ANYTHING…Potential thieves can see it and they just don’t like the looks of it…