Car has no power

I found out some more info about your vehicle and it looks like we are on the wrong track here. The data shows that power going to the distribution panel doesn’t go through the fusible links like I assumed it did, so my bad. The data shows a 50 amp fuse in the panel called Fuse 1 with a yellow wire going to the protected side of the fuse. That is the path for all power to the ignition switch. Use your probe to check that out. Power to the rest of the panel is taken from a connection before that fuse. Sorry for the wrong info here.

Just because a car will not start when it is jumped does not mean the battery is good. I had one with a bad cell and it took forever with heavy cables to get it to start. I had another that was so low it took being jumped for 45 minutes to get it started. What is the battery voltage?

On the positive terminal all my fuses are good. On the negative terminal I have nothing on all of them. The top of my box shows that fuse 1 is a 30 amp. The only 50 I have is fuse 8.

I did try a different battery in my car as well yesterday and I still had no power at all.

The info shows fuse 8 should have a orange wire tied to it and the fuse should be 20 amps. You need to check fuse 1 and make sure power is getting to both sides of it. It sounds like it has been swapped with the wrong size and it may be blown out. Use your probe with the clip tied to ground to check for power.

I’m looking on fords website now and its showing that fuse 1 is for the ignition and is a 60. There is a 50 for the blowers motor and fornthe pl,pw,Ps. It also diagrams the battery to the starter relay directly to the box.

Well it appears you have the wrong size fuse in the fuse 1 position at least. We need to know if power is getting to both sides of that fuse, regardless of the fuse size.

It would help if you could show a web link to the info you are looking at.

http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/content/~WOTEXP/~MUS~LEN/41/96expog1e.pdf

I dont know if the first link will open, its a PDF, but the second is the page before you open the pdf. Its page 387. It shows what size fuses, and mine in my car match up to what they show here. I also took all of them out and looked at them, they all looked good. I also tested them and with my light on ground I got no reading at all on any of them, How ever on my positive post I got a reading on all of them, both sides.

I can’t view the fuses but no biggie.

You say you didn’t get any light when you tested things. If you didn’t get a light on either side of fuse 1 while it was in place and you are sure you made good contact with it then we have a input issue. Just to verify that you are making good connection remove fuse 1 and check both sides of the fuse contacts in the panel. One side should light up with the probe test. If it doesn’t then you have verified your other test and there is a problem with the wire connection going from that panel back to the battery. That wire is making a bad connection somewhere and it shouldn’t be hard to find where it is at.

The reason you get a light when you place the clip on the positive terminal was explained earlier and that method is not normally used in locating a power connection problem. You should just use ground for your reference point. Either method will work, but until you really understand what is going on using the positive post as your reference can confuse you.

Okay, I took out fuse 1 and tested both sides of the connection. On the left side I had no light. On the right side I had light.

That was with it hooked up to ground. With positive I got nothing this time. Backwards to what i was getting with the fuse in.

Okay now we are getting somewhere. Replace the bad fuse.

I may have jumped the gun a little bit thinking about this again. There still might be a bad connection from the battery to panel. By removing the fuse you isolated the load and if there is a bad connection the light could still work since it doesn’t require much current to operate. If you have no power on either side of the fuse while it is in place and you are sure you are making good connections to it then the main power lead to the panel has a connection problem. I can’t see how the panel is connected to the battery in your video unless that piece of the cable going to the left side of the solenoid ties to it somehow.

Its bad even though I’m getting a reading with the fuse in on my positive terminal?

Because none of my fuses are showing up on my ground only on the positive, unless I take them out.

Sorry, Went to do it again. On ground I get nothing on any of my fuses with them in our out. On positive I get a reading on both sides of all fuses, With them out I get a reading only on the right side.

After looking at your test results again it appears your fuses are okay and the problem is definitely with the supply wire connection from the battery to the panel.

I finally managed to find my stater, they put it under and behind the engine. I tested it with my ground and got a light. tested it with my positive and got a light again.

Well I didn’t know the starter was missing. Why aren’t you trying to find out where the battery connection to power panel problem is at? You need to follow that wire back from the panel to the battery. I can’t help you there as I can’t see where it is in your video.

In that video I was testing the starter relay, not the actual starter. But I’m working on trying to find that problem right now, I’m also having a family memeber that is familiar with cars come over soon to help me if I cant track this down. I’ll let you know if I find anything else.