Car engine stalled when car come to a stop from high speed

#1

I have a 95 Camry with 190000 miles. Every time it comes to a stop, its engine dies. Actully it dies even when I slow down, especially coming out from high way. The scary thing is after the engine dies the brake becomes very stiff. Yet, the car is still moving.



I changed the cables, rotor, and spark plugs. The symtom stayed. So I a bottle of fuel cleaner and drove 50 miles. It did not help either. The air filter is very clean. Does any one has any insight to the problem.

#2

Yes, when the engine stalls the brakes become difficult because the engine is what makes the vacuum for the “power” brakes.

I don’t know what’s causing this problem, but I suggest you take this car to a mechanic instead of guessing what might be wrong yourself.

Has the “check engine” light ever come on?

#3

You left out some key details. Does the car start immediately after it stalls? How does it run after the restart? Were the plugs unusually white or dark when you pulled them out?

When you pulled the rotor, did you notice if this distributor has a mechanical advance? Could that be hanging up in the full advance position?

  1. I would check for cracks in the air tube between the air mass airflow sensor and the throttle body.
  2. I would clean the throttle body and idle air control valve (which I presume this car has).
  3. I would check the throttle position sensor switch. For that, you need an ohm meter and a manual with the specifications. Some of these sensors have an audible click as they come off the stop, and the lack of a click indicates failure. Unfortunately, I don’t know whether yours is supposed to click.
#4

I’m confused-- you say the car dies when it come to a stop, but that the car is still moving when it dies?

When it does die, can you start it right back up?

#5

If the throttle body has not been cleaned in a while, I would do that with emphasis on the idle air control passages. Does the Idle Air Control valve hold the engine idle at the appropriate RPM cold, hot, in drive, and with A/C on?

Also consider the possiblity that the lock up torque converter may not be releasing when you step on the brakes.

Something is wrong with the brake booster if you get a hard pedal with a stopped engine. There usually remains enough vacuum in the booster reservoir for 3 or 4 assisted applications. There may be a problem with the check valve for the booster. Alternately, the booster it self may be leaking air and that might be sending a slug of unmetered air to the intake manifold that is killing the engine.

Is this Camary an I4 or V6? Does it have a Mass Airflow Sensor?

Hope this helps.

#6

Auto trans? How 'bout the torque converter is not unlocking?

#7

Hey Beadsandbeads, your’e good! I have not heard of a torque converter failing to disengage in 25 years, but it can happen, and it exactly matches up with these symptoms. Is it too late to change my vote?

#8

I have to give more gas to restart the car otherwise it won’t start. The plugs were dark. I am not to sure about the mechanical advance.

#9

It’s I4. I don’t know about the mass airflow sensor

#10

The I4 uses a Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor so that is not the problem.

#11

No, I am just a hack. I have never witnessed it myself, but I have seen reports.

#12

Even if the engine dies while the car is moving, the power brakes should have enough power (vacuum) for one, or two, applications of the brakes.
The symptoms of dieing while braking, and no residual brake vacuum, are symptoms of a bad power brake booster.
After you check it out for the over-night unattended idling (your other post), check to see if the brakes work, and drive it to your favorite mechanic.