I have a 2014 Ford Fiesta and the horn quit working. I am trying to find out which fuse or relay to check.
Does anyone know? There is nothing in the manual that gives any info about the horn.
All of my cars’ manuals have a diagram of fuse/relay boxes and gives their locations. Cars can have boxes under the dashboard, on the ends of the dashboard, under the hood, etcetera.
Look under the hood for a fuse/relay “center” box. Most have a diagram describing locations of specific fuses and relays, usually in the box lid.
If the fuse is good then see if another relay has the exact same part number as the horn relay and try swapping them momentarily to see if a different relay fixes the problem.
CSA
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Thank you for the info, I have already checked both fuse/relay boxes and the lids only have numbers on them. The diagrams only refer to numbers which are in the manual and the manual says nothing about the horn, even in the diagrams.
This is so silly to me, because I have always encountered exactly what you have said, but this does not. That is why I’m so stumped.
From what I can see the horn fuse is F26 located in the battery junction box. It shares a function with the body control module and the battery saver function, which may be why you are having a difficult time figuring out which one it is. Hopefully you know where the battery junction box is located, presumably near the battery. BTW, if the problem isn’t the fuse, you are probably looking at a clockspring (steering column) problem. Hopefully it is just the fuse.
One of the most likely culprits when a horn doesn’t work is the horn. Some little cars have only one horn, not two. Have you checked the horn? Is it difficult to access?
If you can get to the horn connector/connectors you can unplug them from the horn and using a simple continuity light/meter, have somebody honk the horn (with the ignition key “on”) and see if there is current present. If so, try a new horn.
I always try and keep in mind to check “easiest, cheapest things first!”
CSA
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Over quite a few decades I’ve experienced an inoperative horn only 2 or 3 times, but the problem was always the horn or the wire connections at the horn.
It should be noted that horns are susceptible to water and/or road salt contamination just by the nature of their location, usually low and in front, and because they need exposure to be audible.
Where I live there are only 2 seasons, a long salt season and a shorter sodium-free season. 
Horns and other car parts take a beating.
Sometimes if one sticks their ear near the inoperative horn when somebody honks it they can hear it moaning, buzzing, clicking, or trying to work. Other times taping it with a screwdriver can temporarily bring it to life.
CSA
Yeah I think its the actual horn too. About $10 unless you want the dual tone variety. But the information on which number fuse operates which device would be in the owners manual.
See those screws that are covered with sealant? In some cases, removing the sealant and fiddling with the screw adjustment will restore functionality
I recall some Fords operated the horn through the steering wheel horn button without a relay. It escapes me what models but a schematic is certainly the best place to start, regardless.