check engine light starts flashing, engine vibrating and misfiring while racing, i have fixed whatever the codes were, I have changed the plugs, ignition coils, air flow socket, oxygen sensor (bank 2 sensor 1 “according to the code”) cleaned all the sockets and checked the wires, no vacum leaks, gas cap and air filter are okay, I have finally changed the complete engine control, still the problem exists. Any help will stop me change the whole engine
Driving the vehicle with a flashing Check Engine light can damage the engine and the catalytic converter(s).
You should have the vehicle towed to a shop so it can be determined what is causing the check Engine light to flash.
Thank you sir, but this is the third day the mechanics are hardly working on it, they have followed all the codes and fixed whatever the codes were about, but still the problem exists, i just asked if anyone faced such a problem and have an idea on how to fix it
have you or someone pulled the error codes?
yes we did, first the code showed various ignition coils malfunctioning and we replaced all the coils, plugs and fuel injectors, then it showed the oxygen sensor (bank 2 sensor 1) we replaced it as well, still keeps showing up the cylinder codes.
here’s some further ideas
Have the shop hook up a noid lite, and make sure all the injectors are being pulsed correctly
compression test for all cylinders . . . if compression is low enough to cause a misfire, you’ve got serious and expensive problems
make sure the wiring to the coils and injectors doesn’t have any obvious rodent damage
Did you use the plugs specifically mentioned in the owner’s manuals? I would stay away from champion and autolite plugs for your car, fwiw
4 cylinder, I presume?
Thank u so much sir, i have changed all the injectors twice with a complete care and attention, the wires to the coils and injectors are absolutely okay, I will only ask the mechanic about the compression issue and see what he can do.
And about the plugs, we usually use the normal plugs which is widely spread here and everybody uses them, i think it is called something like (ginuin).
And no, it is 6 cylinder sir.
“Misfire” means the engine computer isn’t seeing the crankshaft accelerate after each spark plug firing, like it should see by monitoring the crank and cam position sensors. So it pretty much has to be from among something that prevents a healthy bang and resultant push on the crankshaft.
- spark plug(s) aren’t firing consistently
- spark plug(s) firing at wrong time
- fuel system problem
- air intake problem
- valve, valve timing, or compression problem
- battery/charging system problem
Each of those has to be eliminated one by one. You’ll have to make a guess where to start is all. Absent specific diagnostic code info, I’d start by testing the crankshaft position sensor.
The codes don’t tell you what to replace, they just tell you what systems need to be diagnosed to see what the problem is. There are troubleshooting procedures, that are quite involved and take a fair amount of time that people don’t want to go through or pay a mechanic to go through so they just replace the main component of the system and 90+ percent of the time it fixes the problem. less than 10 percent of the time it winds up costing a lot of money which is where you are now and all of that diagnostic and troubleshooting work needs to be dome.
The lazy or incompetent throw up their hands and say, “it must be the computer”.
replacing the O2 sensor could make a difference only if the original was defective. If you changed a working O2 sensor with another working one, nothing will change. It simply detected an out-of-range value in the exhaust. Maybe running too lean, maybe to rich or something else that causes the abnormal reading.