I am rebuilding a 1975 Ford C4 transmission with the help of a step-by-step video. I have disassembled the transmission and have have a question on the forward clutch hub, which, suprisingly, the video did not talk much about.
Here are some pix of what I think arepoints of damage and undue wear to the hub.
http://www…783203538/
You transmission guys, do you concur? Should I replace the forward clutch hub?
YThx Pop
I would. It also looks like it started scraping the ring gear. The ring gear is usable but with the hub being questionable, I would replace it. The cause of this is most likely from the thrust washer between the forward drum and the hub. MAKE SURE you replace the thrust washers during your rebuild.
transman
THANK YOU transman, will do.
I have reassembled the forward clutch, replacing the seals and the five “fiber” clutch plates. When done, I checked the snap ring clearance, which the specs say is suppsed to be .025" - .050". Uh-oh. Mine is something close to ZERO. I can’t get my thinnest feeler guage in there, no way, no how. I realy don’t thiiiiiiink I reversed the upper and lower snap rings. In any case I guess this clutch pack has to come apart again. Any other likely causes of my problem?
Is the piston fully seated in the drum?? Are you using the proper frictions, steels and backing plate?? Are all the clutch frictions and steels fully seated evenly across the backing plate?? Is the backing plate fully seated against the piston??
transman
I think I better take the thing apart again. I thought the piston was seated, I pushed down as uniformly and as hard as I could. But I will recheck. The steels are the same ones that I took out. I am pretty sure I put the correct frictions in from the rebuild kit, but I will recheck them.
Make sure you didnt fold that lip seal over when you installed the piston, that would make the piston be a little too high on one side. I think thats probably where your problem is.
transman
I will check very closely and report back. Thank you, transman!
I am in need of the following parts for my rebuild project -
- Forward clutch hub
- Ring gear that attaches to forward clutch hub
- The snap ring that holds Fwd clutch hub and ring grear together
- Thrust washers
- Clutch spring retainer (I bent the one I have trying to get the snap ring out)
Any suggestions for sources of these parts would be appreciated, especially if they are local to either the Northern Virginia or Richmond Virginia areas. Though non-local sources would be fine also.
They’re not in VA, but if A and Red’s can’t help you I don’t know who can. They will ship. Mail (or email) order is a good chunk of their business. They haven’t missed with me yet, and I’ve messed with some obscure stuff. Can you spell Studebaker? How about '50s Mercedes? OK, can you spell Borg Warner?
Question on Installation of Torque Converter
I?m replacing the torque converter for this project. The Haines Guide in the instructions on the removal of the old torque converter said to scribe the position of the torque converter relative to the flywheel which I did. I assume that this scribing procedure is done for the sake of balancing. The stud that I scribed on the old torque converter was immediately adjacent to the balancing weight but opposite of drain plug. On the new torque converter the balancing weight and drain plug are adjacent to each other. So the question is: what orientation should I use for the installation of the new torque converter?
The flywheel and the torque converter are balanced independently. It is good measure to line the torque converter to it’s original position on the flywheel if it will be reinstalled, but with a new torque converter, it doesn’t matter. Personally, I’d make sure the drain plug position is the same, but not worry about the weights. They a positioned where they are positioned to balance the overall assembly.
All you need to do here is install the transmission, pull the converter forward up against the flex plate, install your first bolt, tighten it finger tight then back it off 1/4 turn. This allows slack so all the other bolts will line up. You now should be able to move the converter separate from the flex plate back and forth 1/16-1/8". Turn the flex plate and engine until you can access the next bolt hole and install the next bolt using the same procedure (Finger tight then back off 1/4 turn). Once all the bolts are in then tighten them down. Its a lot of turning on the engine but its better than tightening the first one down and the others dont line up properly and you end up damaging the threads in the converter. Thats really all that scribe mark was for just in case you were using the old converter.
transman
Thanks, guys, I really appreciate your help.
With 9 kids, how on earth do you find a time or place to tear down a transmsission? 
Ha… my username is a bit out of date… I have 10 kids now, but who’s counting
. Fortunately one of them is an 18 year old boys who is mechanically inclined and is doing most of the work on this rebuild but under my watchful eye.