Just took my '93 Ford Ranger (162K miles) in as the clutch had been slipping for awhile. The transmission had felt fine. The shop recommended a new transmission to go along with the new clutch due to the clutch plate being so worn (this had apparently affected the transmission). How can I know if this was necessary and how does one know if a new or rebuilt transmission was installed?
The shop recommended a new transmission to go along with the new clutch due to the clutch plate being so worn (this had apparently affected the transmission).
It sounds like a shop with imagination to me. Let’s see what others have to say, but I think I would be looking for a new shop.
Clutch plates ware out, that is why they are replaced. My suggestion is you get another mechanic, this one will probably wash yours off and bill you for a new one.
Find a new shop.
If the trans goes into gear smoothly while driving or does not pop into neutral (esp fifth) while under load you don’t need a new trans. However ensure you’re not losing trans fluid from the seals. This unit does not like to run low on fluid (which is Ford auto trans fluid). Yes you can replace seals without replacing the trans, however the front seal and the top cover seal requires trans removal. The rear seal can be replaced in the truck. Also, an exchange rebuilt trans is more economical than a new unit and will most likely incorporate all the latest design updates Ford has discovered since building yours, especially if rebuilt by a reputable supplier (like Jaspers).
When getting a new clutch, ensure the flywheel is resurfaced, new flywheel bolts are used, and the mechanic knows the torque values for the flywheel, pressure plate and engine block to trans fastners.
Furthermore, ensure you spring for a new hydraulic slave cylinder unit at the same time. Oftimes the original unit will spring a leak (how does Ford design this in?) within weeks of the clutch work and your nice new clutch will slip and slide all the way to the garage. Of course this work is not covered by the shop warranty.
The only way the transmission should be affected is if you have been doing a lot of gear grinding and crunching during this extended spell of clutch problems.
Any problems caused by this are usually verified by draining the trans oil and inspecting it for debris.
If there has not any been gear crunching and the trans is not making noise (howling, bearing rumble, etc.) then I would like to know their reason for this also.?
Som add’l info I should have originally included: the clutch disc had worn nearly to the rivets, thus the slipping while in gear. Also, once the clutch had been taken apart, it was evident that the pressure plate fingers had worn down the teeth on the transmission input shaft so that it was nice and smooth (or “bad” and smooth as the case turned out). The shop declared that to tear apart the transmission to replace that input shaft, it was just cheaper to install a “new” rebuilt transmission.
As I often state on this board, knowing the whole story helps.
Since the input shaft splines were gone the shop is correct, and honest, in recommending a rebuild unit rather than repairing the original.
Back to my original question, how does one know if a “new” transmission was installed? Afterall, the “old” transmission they showed me was one on the floor, could have been anyone’s. Is there a serial number that is recorded to differentiate the original from the replacement?
I am confused. How did the pressure plate wear the front shaft splines? The only thing that rides on those splines is the clutch disk. I have personally never seen input shaft splines wore off by a clutch.
I’m not sure on the Ranger about the serial number. Years ago, serial numbers used to be stamped into a boss and it was always there unless someone took a grinder to it.
The trend has been toward foil type tags which generally fall off after a while or are removed for some slightly devious reasons.
Stripping the input shaft splines is a very rare thing to happen. I have seen a few input shafts like this but have never seen one completely peeled smooth. Some of the splines remained but there was not enough there to to drive the disc.
You might contact a Ford dealer and ask where the ser. no. tag is located. If that trans is yours then you should be able to match the trans to your VIN.
…and this is where I’m showing my ignorance, but don’t the teeth in the pressure plate also engage the splines on the transmission input shaft or is the clutch disc the only place where the splines connect? I will contact Ford though and find out what I can about the original transmission and what identifying markings there are on it. Appreciate all the feedback, I’m learning alot!
By the way, here is what they did for $1,990:
1 Clutch Kit
2.5 Qts Dexron ATF
Brake F. Pts. (whatever that is)
1 Slave Cylinder
1 Rebuilt Transmission Assembly
That and $100 worth of Freight (to get the rebuilt transmission) and $400 worth of Labor