Balancer was already installed. Bolt went in no problems. Just have to finish tightening the belts and I am good.
Good news
You’re obviously on home stretch
The good thing here is that we arent talking about a Grade 8 or better bolt that broke in there. There are several ways you can get this thing out. I imagine the bolt was only hand tight in the crank nose just to use this bolt as a stud to pull the damper back on. At least that is how it is supposed to be used…hand tightened.
The fact that it is soft is a blessing. You can use counter rotating drill bits like Steve mentioned… Drill the bolt out and use HIGH Quality Extractors to run it back out… Try to use a sharp chisel and run it out on the rim. Theres PLENTY of fun to be had still.
You want to really mess up your shorts…try getting a bolt like this out with a Hardened EZ out broken off inside of the bolt…thats when the real fun begins…and time to get out the Welder.
Blackbird
Good for you. Just for the fun of it maybe send the kit back and ask for refund. They should at least know what apiece of junk they are selling.
There is an option to send it back as defective, and as soon as the project is complete, that is the next thing on my list. At least they will know how inferior the tool was.
Don’t take this the wrong way, but is it possible you over-tightened the bolt? More force than it was meant to take? It would be easy to do, since you’ve probably never installed the pulley before, used that tool before, and were unsure at what point it bottoms out at its correct position. Plus you were struggling to prevent the crankshaft turning at the same time.
I had a similar problem one time removing the HB from my Corolla. I loosened the center bolt, then using a puller to pull it off. But I pulled to far and chipped the edge of the HB with the puller.
I had tightened the bolt, did not bottom it out, and held the bolt with a wrench to keep it from turning when the crank stared turning. As I snugged it down, the bolt broke while I turned the bearing bolt. I don’t think I used any more force than necessary, but I guess it is possible. Regardless, the tool came with a warranty, so might as well use it.
Tools can be a real hit and miss thing anymore and especially so if they’re not a higher end tool such as Snap-On, MAC, Cornwell, etc.
Even some Sears Craftsman tools are becoming inferior and it’s due to the low quality of the steel used in their manufacture. This does not apply to all Craftsman tools. The wrenches and sockets are fine; the problem is with the ratchets, breakovers, etc. 
Just curious, a question for the pro’s out there, why a special tool was needed by the OP to press the pulley back on? I’m a diy’er novice at that job, only had to do it on the Corolla one time so far. When I did it, all I had to do as I recall was position the pulley where it goes – seem to remember there was a locking keyway gadget to deal with first – then at that point all I did was tighten the center bolt that normally holds it on its shaft. With the help of the washer underneath the bolt to spread the force out a bit, the pulley pressed right on.
I did have to use the special plywood pin-tool I had already constructed to remove the pulley, to hold the crankshaft in place so it didn’t spin.
Is the reason b/c there is something different about the OP’s PT Cruiser crankshaft pulley compared to the Corolla’s? Is it b/c the OP didn’t have that pin-tool?
All I can say is that there are plenty of balancer installer sets out there, so this situation is by no means exclusive to OP
I believe even Harbor Fake sells a balancer installer set
Just a bit of unrelated crankshaft bolt trivia.
Back in the old days of the big block Cadillacs (472, 500, etc) the harmonic balancer was a press fit on the crankshaft nose and had no bolt at all.
The end of the crankhaft was threaded for a bolt but they came out of the factory with the hole plugged by a cork…
Why is a tool needed? Because most dampers these days are indeed a press fit. Meaning you absolutely cannot install them with a hammer of any type. You need to use an installer. The installer is a simple affair…just a center stud and a bearing that goes on the damper and a nut…
The center stud goes on finger tight…the bearing on the damper prevents any of the nuts turning force from being applied to the damper itself. The center stud doesnt see much torquing when in use… I believe mine has an end that I can hold to prevent over tightening it.
Ive found most American vehicles use the press fit type of gigantic damper where the Foreign Vehicles use a two piece setup with the damper being held and centered by bolts or the crank in a different form.
Merican engines have had a press on damper since before I was spinning wrenches…just like OK said the 472 and 500 ci engines are a good 10yrs before I was breaking things on purpose on this earth.
Blackbird
@“Honda Blackbird” writes …
Why is a tool needed? Because most dampers these days are indeed a press fit.
The early 90’s Corolla crank pulley – I’m not certain if it sports a harmonic balancer function – but it also is sized with respect to the shaft so it has to be pressed on. It’s just that I’m able to press it on just using only the hardware the car came with. The crankshaft bolt and its washer provides enough force to easily press the crankshaft pulley onto the crankshaft. I’m assuming for other vehicles, maybe their crankshaft pulley/harmonic balance is more robust, and this method wouldn’t provide enough force, or not apply the force in the right spot. So a special tool is required.