Brake squeaks forward but goes away for a while after backing up

Maintenance/Repairs
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1

Hi,

I have a 2002 Chrysler Sebring convertible that I just change the rear brake pads and rotors on. The driver side rear squeaks when driving but will quit for awhile after I back up about 10 feet. Then it comes back after about a mile.

I had trouble putting one pad into the inside part the caliper so I pinched the prongs in little. I applied anti-squeal grease also.

Could it be the pad is a little loose? I greased the caliper bolt sleeves also.

I haven’t done anything yet, but I’m planning to jack it up, take off the wheel a take a look. Also, the old rotor had pretty deep groove on the tire side of the caliper.

Thanks,
Bob

2

You just changed the rear brake pads and rotors. But the old rotor had a pretty deep groove. Which is it? New rotors or the old rotors?

Tester

3

The old rotor on the driver’s side rear on the wheel side had pretty deep groove before I replaced the pads.

4

“I had trouble putting one pad into the inside part the caliper so I pinched the prongs in little.”

if something won’t fit right, it’s normally a good practice to see what’s hanging it up. My guess is that pad is sticking, and heating up. That’ll make it squeal. I think you need to go back in, un"pinch" your prongs, and fix whatever the hangup is.

5

what’s a prong? what’s a pinch? maybe what you pinched is not contacting something it should not.

I am not familiar with the sebring, but are you referring to anti-rattle clips?

Did you put the grease on ALL metal to metal contacts, including the shims?

Did you push the pistons ALL the way back so that the pads could easily fit between the pistons and rotors?

6

If you install new brake pads on old rotors, the new brake pads might not seat or embed properly on the old rotors. And that’s because the friction surfaces of the rotors must match the friction surfaces of the new brake pads in order for this seating/embeding process to occur. If this doesn’t occur it can result in unwanted brake noise.

You can read here how important it is to make sure the brake pad/rotor friction surfaces match up to avoid unwanted brake noise. http://www.aa1car.com/library/tr996.htm

Tester

7

I replaced the rotors when I replaced the pads.

On the back of the pad that goes into the caliper brake cylinder are three prongs (v-shaped piece of metal that sticks up from pack of the pad with the “V” sticking out, so you have to push it past the cylinder opening) in a circle that you have to push into the cylinder. I had a hard time getting it in so I bent the prongs in a little to be able to push it in. The rear brakes don’t have anti-rattle clips or shims. Put grease on caliper bushings and anti-squeal grease on back of pads.

Jacked car up and took wheel off. Found that it sticks at the same place as I turn the rotor. Couldn’t see anything obvious. Friend suggested that I apply come sort of glue to back of the brake pad. Didn’t have time to do anything, so just put the wheel back on .

8

I took the wheel off and the top half of the pad and the rotor showed wear but the bottom half didn’t. I took the pad out and it came out pretty easy. I pushed the prongs back out and sprayed something called “Disk Brake Quiet”. It left a light blue coat on the pad that was kind of tacky. I put it all together and it didn’t squeak for awhile, but started up again. And again, it goes away when I back up, but I have to brake harder.