I’d be doing all the labor. I just need the parts. Just trying to get a feel of what to do. But everybody’s giving me some pretty good feedback.
Hi Djferreira83:
I’m going to buy a small block and replace the heads, rods, crank etc…
How will you know if the heads, rods, crank from the old engine aren’t weakened?
As previously noted, you don’t want to be doing this again in another 5-10K miles.
It looks like your assumption is that just one rod let go, and that the other parts are still in good shape. Is that correct?
If it is correct, help us understand what leads you to believe that those other parts will give you long engine life. Thank you.
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Hey everyone so I think maybe I didn’t speak right I am I wasn’t going to resurface anything or drill anything I’m simply gonna replace with a small block cylinder heads rods so the whole piston and Everything else from basically the Heads down
Can the rest of your drivetrain handle the stresses? It appears that they are stock. Just be they weren’t the first components to give out doesn’t mean they are capable of handling your modified old engine or a new crate motor.
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I think the term you should be using is “short block” That is the block, crank, pistons and rods assembled. Basically the engine without the heads.
As I posted before, don’t assume the heads have no damage. Tear them down and inspect ALL the bearing surfaces and oil passages as well as the face of the heads themselves.
When a rod let loose in one of my race engines it left a heck of a dent in the cylinder head because the piston hit it after the rod got loose. But it was running GOOD before it blew!
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How much boost are/were you running and how much did you open up the ring gap??
Did you have the rods and pistons installed by a pro shop or machine shop?? What was the bearing gap for the rods and mains??
All stock vs modified…
Also if you were running high boost on E85 and your flex fuel sensor malfunctioned, and or an issue with the tune could/would have caused the air conditioned block…
I would hope for 30K (although not all of that went under the hood) that you would be north of 650-700HP…
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I appologize for calling it a 4 cylinder. I knew someone was putting a4 cylinder 2.7 in pickups but I looked it up and it was Chevy and GMC.
I am truly amazed you got 100,000 miles with these mods.
Why did you try to wring more power out ove the least powerfull of the V6 engines available. The same power could have been obtained less expensively with the two larger ones.
Your optimism about using your internal engine parts again aftr 100K and a catastrofic failure makes me doubt you built this thing youself. Whoever built the engine for you will quickly quickly dismiss that idea.
Right there is a lot of money spent on looks, (except the brakes) not engine.
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That’s only part of it. There’s a lot more I just didn’t get to upload it yet. Got a lot going on and just pulled the PAN engines deathly done. Cylinder head plus rod and it looks like it started to tear into another rod
I’ve got about 30K invested. There’s a list that’s about two more times the size of this for engine and trans
Is well pulled PAN … Piston rod and it looks like started to break another rod and of course the spider framing of the lower block
Just to clarify… you’ve not “invested” $30,000. You’ve “spent” $30,000. Most vehicles, and most “modified” vehicles, do not appreciate in value, which is the definition of “investment”.
And now at least a good chunk of that “investment” is worthless.
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Sadly, modifications generally don’t add value–they take away value. Most people would pay less for a modified vehicle than they would for the same model with similar miles in stock condition. Personally, I wouldn’t even touch a modified vehicle. Anything more complicated than an aftermarket stereo, and I keep looking.
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You spent a lot of money on a highly modified engine and probably had a lot of fun for 100k… a really long life for shuch a modified engine. Now you need to decide if you want to do it again or go for a longer lived engine. Most posters here are advising you to replace it with a stock engine because they value reliability over power, clearly you value power. Your money, your choice, but don’t do the same thing again and expect a different result.
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I’m on the OP’s side, if you have the funds, go for it… lol
Does Ford make a SVO or whatever engine for your truck… Or Dart ect?? I don’t remember Noonan carrying one, but maybe Blueprint engines??
Or sale what you can and move to a Fox Body or SN95 and LS swap that bad boy with twins and go out and have some real fun… Not going to make 1500HP that cheap in anything else out there… And those cars came with factory 4 link suspensions, not hard to make them hook and book… Tubular front cradles are everywhere… Glass front ends, hoods, lids…
This is an old tale repeated FWIW. 25 years ago I maintained a fleet of 6 Ford Aerostar vans that ran 200 t0 400 miles/day. When I retired those vans were still running with 300k + miles, one was 400k+ and had never had a breakdown. I 'd hate to try to modify an OE engine to outdo that.