To get the code to display on the odometer, all I did was cycle the key on and off three times, leaving the key on the third time, as Nevada_545 suggested. I knew this worked on older Chryslers to flash OBD1 codes on the check engine light, but did not realize it would work on newer ones as well.
As to progress with the transmission, I did install the new governor pressure transducer, a new filter, and five quarts of fresh fluid, which was not enough to refill it completely. The counter person at the 'Zone, which was where I got the filter kit and fluid, said a filter change refill on this transmission was four quarts, so I bought five and apparently need more (the vehicle did sit for 24 hours with the pan off). The check engine light is still on, which is not surprising since I have not done anything to clear it. Will this have to be done to get it out of limp mode, or will the PCM realize the problem has been resolved on its own?
Limp mode should only occur with an active fault, not a stored fault. After two good trips the check engine light should go out.
CSA, your method is just as good, it is the instrument cluster self test. It should display PCM codes after the cluster error codes and pass code but that may lead to confusion for some.
The key cycling error code display works on most BUS communicating clusters in Chrysler products 1998 to ?.
Mark, MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE you check the fluid level on a level surface, trans hot and the gear selector in NEUTRAL. You will get false readings if you check in any other gear position other than NEUTRAL.
transman
Thanks, transman, I am well aware of that. My father was a Chrysler fanatic, and when I got my first vehicle without a TorqueFlite in it, I had to get used to the idea of checking fluid in park. Hopefully today I can get some more fluid to finish filling it up and see if the problem is solved.
Well, I got some more ATF+4, got it filled up, and test drove a couple times. The transmission is no longer in limp mode and the check engine light is no longer on, so it was definitely the governor pressure transducer. I am happy to have fixed this problem as cheaply and as easily as it went. I didn’t mean to come across as bashing on Berryman’s Chemtool, I just thought it bizarre that such sudden and complete failure (as it seemed at first) happened less than two weeks and maybe 30 miles after pouring in an additive that is, actually, no longer labeled for any use other than as a fuel system cleaner, although the name is the same. I certainly didn’t think that the regulars on this forum would recommend anything harmful and wanted to warn others if something had changed about the product. I was concerned that, since the labeling and application had changed that the product may have been reformulated and harmed the transmission. With as common as this problem seems to be based on reading about it on the Web, I’m going to chalk it up to coincidence. Thanks to everyone who helped me to diagnose this problem and get my vehicle back on the road.