Axle? cv boot? argh!


#1


Hello,



my passat makes a clicking noise when i turn left or

right and jerks when the speeding up or slowing down. Thought it was the transmission so i took to the dealer and paid close to $500 to have the trans pan gasket changed along with a flush. The car still jerks and the clicking is worse. Then I was told(recommended by dealer) all i needed was to replace the outercv boots and that would stop the clicking and jerking. is this true?



do i need to replace the axles?



i also have vogtland sport spring lowered suspension with 18" rims. does the suspension have anything to do with the cv boots or axle breaking?



All this was done at the dealership. So i’m weary of going back. I would appreciate your advice.



05 vw passat wagon 1.8 t 72.000 miles aka my baby!





kind regards rosa


#2

The boot is not what is clicking, it is the CV joint. Replacing the boot will keep new dirt/grit out of the joint, but the damage is already done if it is making the noise you describe and jerking. If you plan on keeping the car you should have it replaced.

I also would recommend that you take your car to a good independent mechanic rather than the dealer. The work will be just as good and almost always a hell of a lot cheaper. Dealers are only good for work under warranty, in my opinion.


#3

Why do you think that the transmission is causing the car to jerk? I think that it is the engine misfiring which is causing the engine to jerk. It’s time to replace those original spark plugs, and air filter, and fuel filter. Then, if the engine still jerks, your able mechanic can check other things (ex: fuel pressure regulator, fuel pressure, etc.).
The “check engine light” should be coming on. Take the car to an auto parts store and ask them to do an engine computer scan (free). Bring any codes here for advice.
The clicking during turns is caused by worn cv joints. The fix is to replace the left and right axles. The axles come with cv joints and boots.
The advice given to you, by the dealer, is in error. Save on parts and labor by going to an independent repair shop.


#4

Somewhere on the bill there should be some mention of whether or not the engine/transmission mounts were checked. If not, they should have been, along with a few other things. You can’t get good results with only half a job done. Oh yes! The lowered suspension is the worst thing that can happen to an engineer’s life of training and experience. Plus: If you hit a policeman, they will hold the modification against you when they thoroughly inspect the car, especially if you weren’t at fault. They will be looking for an out.


#5

thank you. have taken the car to an independent. They went as far to show me the axle and explained that because the axle and
boots are damaged the sensor on the axle misreads the speed and either over or undercompensates when stopping or accelerating, so the car jerks. The car just had a full engine check, scan etc… no lights or error codes came up. The dealer
really did take me for a ride. Still the cost of the front left and right axle is alittle over a thousand dollars. And the independent mechanics have also suggested i change the timing belt. I don’t know much about cars but i figured the timing belt would go over 100k. The car only has 72k.


#6

The independent shop is proposing to take you for a ride, too. Auto Zone auto parts has the axles for $100 each. The usual markup at the garage would be about $100 each. Of course, they’ll use a “name brand” and charge $300 each. I suppose this is “say lah veeve”.


#7

You’re welcome, glad I could help. Personally, I don’t think the independent mechanic it taking you for a ride, if I am reading your post right and he is replacing both left and right. For two axles, the boots, and the labor, it seems about right. I assume that there is a little less room to work in there with the suspension lowered, although I have never worked with a lowered Passat before. I think the timing belt is also a good idea for your baby. I have seen them break before the 72k that you have on it. Some might run it for 100k+, but is it really worth the risk?


#8

Well i got my car back today. I found out i had an extended warranty on my car so the fix was only $50!! Now i’m still having the isssue of the car jerking when i slow down. Feels like the gear slips( weird for an automatic) Since my warranty covered the axles i decided to have the brakes changed. My mechanic said he wouldn’t machine the rotors. Now the car vibrates like crazy. This is so frustrating. Mechanic said i need new rotors but honestly i can’t afford them. Wouldn’t it be better to machine them?? kind regards, Rosa


#9

P.s. he checked the timing belt and said it was good. So just to be safe he said to check @ 80k which is in a few months.


#10

Rosa,
Your question about the car jerking was answered two days ago. It’s the engine misfiring.
If the wheels have vibration, they are out of balance. The shop which changed the axles did something wrong. They should make it right.


#11

Glad you got the axles fixed under warranty. I don’t think many people are that lucky.

Is it jerking when you slow down by coasting or when you are braking? If it is when you are braking there is a good chance that it is warped rotors. As you have it lowered may I assume that you drive it hard at times? If you are hard on the brakes that would be why your rotors are warping. They are wear items and would not be covered under the extended warranty. Some rotors can’t be resurfaced; they are made thinner and lighter and there just isn’t enough metal one some to have them turned. But if it is just warped rotors you can ride on them for a while until you can afford to have them replaced.

Hellokit might be right about an engine misfire, but if that is the case the computer should have tripped a code and the CEL would be on.


#12

The dealer would tell you that a new boot would fix it,however the only cure to the problem is replacing the offending CVjoint.Sometimes an entire axle is easier and not much more expensive.Have you tried an independant repair shop?


#13

Just when i thought everything was ok everything else started to fall apart. So here we go. After having the 2 brand new axles, new spark plugs, new engine and transmission mounts, new brakes, new rims( mechanic said that’s what was making the car vibrate) new oil pan. My car still vibrates violently and to top it off this morning after only have the car back for 3 days. The car stopped accelerating. Thank god i have a warranty and a friend who gave me the rims. This is getting ridiculous. Mechanic is now saying that i have a transmission code and he can’t fix. There are no visible lights on my dash. Mechanic also said it’s my water pump. I’m very frustrated and angry. Being angry doesn’t help my situation. Please if anyone has any suggestions. Does a vw fall apart violently after 70k?? Any help and at this point muscle would be appreciated.


#14

Ps. This all started when we came back from a road trip we took to san francisco. It rained the whole way down. The day
after we came home the car started jerking. It jerks by the way when i both accelerate and decelerate. Yesterday i washed the car myself using a home carwash kit and today the car started violently jerking more and then just stopped accerlating! Does anyone know if water can damage my car like that? i didn’t spray anywhere except the outside of the car. Not under, not the tires, not the engine. Just the top and side.