You can both clean my rim if you really want to. .I donât have the ability to use my hands for long before they are useless, so I canât scrub away at my rim which is why I was going to spend $50 on one from eBayâŠSOMEDAYâŠmaybe a year from now?
But I have a different question leading back to my brakes. I donât believe I went into much detail about what happens. I think I mentioned there is a horrible noise, but it is constant, not just when braking, it really is more like my entire car rumbles when I step on the brakes and it does it for only a millisecond when I put it in reverse then stops rumbling until I brake again. I didnât give that fact much thoughtâŠthat it rumbles while reversing. So I did a different search using the description of the sound that lead me to think it might be something as simple as a rock caught between the rotor and back plate, or a bad bearing. Like I said, my brakes didnât start going bad with the tell tale signs over timeâŠthis sound seemingly started over night and I thought all along it was something caught that would dislodge itself. The mechanic said he didnât have time to take apart everything. Iâm pretty sure he only took off my wheels because the appointment was specifically for a âbrake inspectionâ, not a âfront end inspectionâ. They have different costs. I watched some videos on Youtube about replacing calipers and other things last night and saw that the pads can be seen by taking off the wheels.
Could this just be a rock caught? It is a constant noise that is slow when Iâm going slow and is a steady hum when Iâm going faster. It can be heard from outside of my car. The mechanic also said my pads had âthis muchâ material leftâŠand was ânearlyâ metal on metal. When I started talking to other people right after it started to happen, the first time was when I got an oil change. It was just a day after the sound started, they said it could just be a rock but they have nothing to do with the wheels, so I disregarded the opinion. Iâm not a daily driver, but the sound remained when I did drive it, the rumbling when I braked got worse-which makes sense if a rock was caught somewhere.
I turned off all distractions and went over every single event in my mind as it happened, the few comments and suggestions of what it could be and then what the mechanic said after an estimate where he only drove my car a few feet. Looking back at the comments on here and a few saying he should have suggested to do both calipers since they have the same amount of wear seems like the responsible thing to tell me. Because he didnât makes me wonder even more if it is something else entirely. I touched on the subject but used the words âpiston popped back inâ. What if itâs a rock caught or a wheel bearing, as I have read on other sights, that may cause that type of noise and physical symptoms? Remember, this area of my car is something I have never dealt with before and I donât know anything about it!
This described the sound when I brake best: âThe entire car shutters and itâs like something is dragging across the rotor.â Take into consideration the sound seemingly started over night, I just got back from driving from WI to TX, all across TX and back to WI, ran over many things that couldnât be avoided, slammed on my brakes numerous times, with a heavy trailer and without, but still this sound seems to have began overnight, along with my rotor and rim rusting at accelerated rates. If something is dragging across my rotor, would that explain the massive rust?
No replies? Thatâs odd since I would barely press âenterâ with all my other posts and there would already be replies.
As many suggested, Iâm getting a second opinion, taking it from there then off on a much needed vacation where I wonât be thinking about car repairs. Maybe Iâll stop in and share the results.I do know this whole experience on this site will make a great paper for my psychology class.
Expound on psychology class please. Really web diagnosis for brake symptoms is really hard, was into clinical psychology working on morphine withdrawal symptoms, trying to eliminate the addictive centers of the brain from the pain relief centers, with a combination of drugs we were able to eliminate 8 of the 13 symptoms of withdrawal in rats, cruel I suppose, but the goal is to provide pain relief from morphine, the most effective pain reliever without having the addictive side effects.
I have had a few expereinces with rotors rusting even overnight, is this a symptom that the more you drive the less worse it is? Sorry a latecomer on this conversation, and have not reviewed the previous 80 or so posts.
[quote=âAnnettemary2112, post:82, topic:102184, full:trueâ]
No replies? Thatâs odd since I would barely press âenterâ with all my other posts and there would already be replies.
As many suggested, Iâm getting a second opinion, taking it from there then off on a much needed vacation where I wonât be thinking about car repairs. Maybe Iâll stop in and share the results.I do know this whole experience on this site will make a great paper for my psychology class.
Cheers!
[/quote]As a former, long-time psychology instructor, I would say you might be able to flesh something out!
Good advice! Auto engineers specify rotors and pads together. Mixing and matching later can be a disaster. Pads too hard or too soft for the rotor steel. If the OEM brakes are lousy then Iâd find a knowledgeable after-market supplier for a recommendation for rotor-pad combination. And I hate buying cars with lousy OEM equipment.
Possibly thinking too hard on the $29.99 charge. For a zillion years, marketers have known that $1.99 sounds like less than $2. So, it is SOP to state the .99. Some businesses go down to .87 or .84.
So, the cent off is strictly a traditional marketing/pricing convention.
I said I may check in⊠Road trips donât mean I can put off my homework. I decided to go with Farm & Fleet after all. I asked if I can SEE whatâs going on with the caliper, Iâm used to seeing what repairs my car needs. Well guess what? No surprise to me, there IS NOTHING WRONG with my caliper. Nothing. There was some debris- just as I thought- all I needed was pads and rotors.
I paid $260 for the entire job.
As a woman, Iâm beyond used to this from repair shops. The best one was being told I needed an entire new transmission after taking it in because my car wouldnât shut off, with the key in my hand. Guess who got a free granny? I did. It needed an ignition switch, nothing more.
So all my questions, my curiosity and trusting my intuition worked outâŠ
On to my homework, then off to the beach.
Thanks to those who stuck to the original topic and directly answered the questions I posted. I appreciate it.
I would normally agree and gave that thought too- how people think theyâre really getting a deal if itâs not a whole number⊠but if labor is on sale for $60/hr, a 1/2 hr is $30- the penny is unnecessary and it didnât matter in the end anyway!
Actually I cannot explain it, thatâs what they said to me⊠I didnât get to see my caliper or anythingâŠ
I am very happy itâs repaired but not happy that I have to go through this time and time again when it comes to repairing my carâŠthatâs why I try to meet and use local people instead of shops- they donât BS me and tell me I need more work than I really do since they wonât profit off it the way shops could⊠but I thought I was dealing with replacing a caliper and my guy didnât really want to do that and the brakes in the rain before my trip! He couldnât use his garage and I donât have one.
Thanks again for your help.
HUH? This is done thousands of times a day all over the world. If there was any problem with not mixing and matching weâd see tens of thousands (if not hundreds of thousands) of vehicles every year with brake problems related to this.
I rarely replace rotors. As long as I replace the brakes before they get too worn, then the rotors are usually fine. For the last 20+ years Iâve been using Wagner brake pads for all my vehicles without any problems. I replaced rotors twice on the last 6 vehicles weâve owned with a total of close to 2 million total miles.
Rotor steel has a certain amount of hardness specified by the factory engineers. Pads that are too hard for that steel will squeal and wear the rotors and pads that are too soft will wear quickly and make a lot of dust. Thatâs what I meant by pads matched to rotors by the manufacturersâ engineers.
If this has never been a problem for you, fine! Before you get too excited, you might want to consider that Wagner takes the trouble to match their pads with specific makes and models. Buying off-the-shelf pads at AutoZone might not prove as effective.
@MikeInNH I have friends that do it that way also, but at 85k miles per brake job for me I prefer spending the bucks and getting new rotors to make sure the brakes will last another 85k. Sure at 160k had the second brake job, and sure the car may not make it to 240k or so next time I need brakes, but I may, and consider it a prudent expenditure of cash.
I see nothing wrong with thatâŠIâm just saying that if you donât it doesnât mean itâs a bad thing. Proven to be perfectly acceptable. Choose what youâre more comfortable with.
My rule of thumb is to replace the rotors at every other pad change. No problem with âmismatchesâ so far. But thatâs only relying on perhaps a million miles or so of driving.
I have to replace both pads and rotors every time and if I get 30,000 miles out of a set I am doing good. I only drive about 7500 miles a year and most of my pad and rotor wear is from the pads grinding the rust off the rotors. We not only have snow and salt all winter, but quite a bit of rain the rest of the year.
.I donât have the ability to use my hands for long before they are useless, so I canât scrub away at my rim which is why I was going to spend $50 on one from eBayâŠSOMEDAYâŠmaybe a year from now?
