replacing a distibutor on a 1989 honda civic…give me thoughts on everything about it!!!..wanting to compare notes…
Remove the the old distributor, and install the new distributor. It can’t be installed incorrectly because the distributor shaft is keyed onto the cam shaft.
Make sure you also ave a timing light to set the base timing once installed.
Easy job . . . mark your wires and make sure the shaft goes in all the way. Rocketman
ok, i know that one was way too easy for all you guys but thank you anyways!!!..now to get down to brass taxes here…on the same car 1.6 litre rice cooker, its maxing output of power is 160 total and 96 to wheels, my question is this: wanting to run true dual exhaust with two pistons on each pipe, what grade and strength of piston rings and valve seals should i go with for maximum long lasting protection??..i tried top-notch and tried low grade on a different vehicle but same motor and had to keep replacing both every year and got very annoyed by the inconvience!!..any thoughts and suggestions on what grade and strength would be greatly appreciated…thank you!!! yours truly, crx unlimited!!!
So besides dual exhaust you’re rebuilding the engine??? I had dual exhaust on my 73 Vega…Same setup as what you want…Two cylinders per side.
What do you keep replacing??? Pistons??? Rings?? Valves???
Make double sure the timing is set correctly and don’t rely on a chalk mark. Jump the test plug before checking the timing because too much timing advance can damage an engine at best (ahem, piston rings and pistons) or destroy it at worst.
You have some big issues here. If you’re having to replace rings and valve seals every year then the engine is either being thrashed to death by abusive driving habits or you’re doing something wrong in regards to the installation.
You need to contact the makers of the products you plan on using. Most of these manufactures have Forums tied to their sales web sites to ask these questions. You will have to post coherently as these guys can smell a nubie over the net and then its FLAME ON.
was having to replace both piston rings and valves each year but that was on a crx and boy did that thing make my blood boil everytime i had to rebuile it, kept finding stress marks on the walls and even shavinbg the walls and putting bigger pistons and bigger rings and valves, was still having to go bigger each year but that was from normal driving, just didnt know if i got a “bad apple” from honda or if it was normal for them and noone just came forward with the same problem…but was running alcohol injection at same time so im guessing that had a smidgent to do with it…LOL…but at 42 miles per gallon and $18.00 to fill it up…i was somewhat satisfied with it…
thanks for the advice…i knew i made the right choice joining this chat club to bounce things off of other mechanics and guys that have been there and done that cause im the best there is in imports and all the flash and stash of them but even i need some guidance every now and then!!!..and to everybody here in this network and from me personally, the owner and operator of crx unlimited inc,…if you need any services and are in pa. anytime, let me know and ill give a discount on my stuff to you guys!!!..and i do it all from basic oil changes to custom jobs like lambo doors and “trick trunks”…looking forward to all friends i will meet on here!!!..getting back to work cause that fiberglass is starting to cure…i will check on here later!!!
OK, dual exhaust on a CRX. Let me guess, K&N air filter, too? So I’m thinking like OK4450 that timing could be an issue, but beyond that lack of back pressure might have been raising your cylinder temps, and increased air intake can do the same as it leans out the fuel/air mixture. Also, K&N filters have been shown to allow more grit and dirt through than stock air filters, though that’s probably not a big issue in Pa., but could be in dusty dessert type locations.