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Advice needed for spark plugs replacement (2006 Sentra)

Hello folks,

My 2006 Sentra 1.8L has about 103,000 miles on it and due for maintenance. I plan to do some of the stuff myself, including spark plugs replacement.

I read few tutorials online and also watched YouTube videos, looks very much doable, except I don’t know if it has ever been removed/replaced (I bought it pre-owned at 70,000 miles) so I don’t know if anti-seize was applied and if the plugs are stuck. I don’t want to take any chances so assuming that they are stuck, can I apply liquid wrench overnight before trying to take them off in the morning?

On one of the threads, one poster mentions that NGK spark plugs have anti-seize coating, is that true? If not, is this product good to use as anti-seize, ?

OEM spark plugs for my car are, but everywhere I am reading that iridiums are better. I was planning to get, Does anyone sense any issue with this?

On some of the threads, the posters suggest replacing spark plugs wires. I can not figure out what piece of equipment they are talking about. I know ignition coils that sit on top of the plugs and which wires are being mentioned here?

Assuming that the plugs are stuck, is it OK to try to loosen all of them one by one and if all loosen up, then replace each? If this is not a good idea, what happens if I manage to replace only 2 or 3, out of 4 spark plugs?

Last but probably most important, when do I give up trying to remove the plug if it is stuck. I don’t want it to break or something, otherwise taking that car to the mechanic would be a hassle. I am very new at working on the cars, but after being taken for a ride by various mechanics, I decided that I should educate myself and start working on the car.

Thanks a lot for all comments in advance.

  1. Yes, you can spray on some penetrating oil and let it sit. However, you don’t want any crud falling into the cylinders, so you will need to clean up before removing the plugs. The anti-seize you linked is what I use on plugs that hav none from the factory.

  2. Go with the type, and preferably, brand that your car came with. You will not get any better performance from the iridium plugs, and sometime non-OE plugs cause an engine to run poorly.

  3. You have coil-on-plug ignition so there are no traditional spark plug wires to replace.

  4. Replace all the plugs you can. If any are stuck, take the car to a shop to get any stuck ones out. If you force a stuck plug, you can damage the threads in the head. Not a terrible catastrophe, but probably not a problem you want to try to repair

NGK does come with an anti-seize plating and you should not use another anti-seize product with that. The plugs will come out easily.

Stick with the double platinum. The platinum plug has a platinum tip cathode and a platinum pad on the anode (ground lug). Many of the iridium plugs just have an iron ground lug and that will erode faster. Some OEM iridium plugs do have a platinum pad on the ground lug but I didn’t see that on your link. You could go to NGK’s web site and get more particulars.

I have never had any trouble getting plugs out of an engine where I could reach the plugs. On various cars I have had to remove things to get to the plugs but once able to get a wrench or socket on them they always came out.

The only exception to this I read about is the Ford Triton engine. Fear not, just get on with the job.

If the car came with Iridium plugs from factory, then replace with Iridium. If the car came with Platinum plugs from factory then replace with Platinum. If the car came with standard nickel coated plugs, then replace with them.

NGK is the OEM provider Nissan. I think Denso might be also be. I would be surprised if your owners manual doesn’t spell out exactly what the NGK or Denso plug number is.

Here’s another vote to stick with the OEM plugs. We’ve seen people here who have had issues after switching to other “better” types.

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Good for you. As mentioned above, just use the plug that the owner’s manual says to use, the one came with the car new, same part number, same brand. Don’t make things more complicated than they need to be. If you can find someone with experience changing spark plugs to show you how to remove the first plug, suggest to start for diy’er experience that way. Get some help in other words.

I’m a driveway diy’er & never come across a spark plug I couldn’t remove. The keys to success are to make sure the socket fits fully over and securely on the plug before applying any force, and to use a socket wrench & extensions that is configured for the job. Fit your socket over a new plug first, so you can see how it is supposed to fit.

On my Corolla (straight 4) I just use an ordinary 3/8 inch drive socket wrench, with an extension long enough to reach the plug. The plug on my Corolla is down inside a deep hole, and I’ve had problems with the socket getting stuck down there, coming loose from the extension. The plug too sometimes gets left down that damn hole. I use a long, narrow pair of forceps to get it back out when that happens. And I learned to duct-tape the extension to the socket.

On my truck (v8) I have to use various extensions and a flexible angle adapter, sort of like a u-joint, in order to remove some of the tough to reach ones near the back of the engine, near the firewall. I doubt you’ll have this kind of problem on your car.

Sometimes on a stubborn plug I’ll have to hit the socket tool with my the butt of my hand a little to cause a bit of an impact effect to get it started turning. If you find that doesn’t work, and you’ve applied quite a bit of force, might make sense to yield take it to a shop rather than risk breaking the plug off. When you replace the new plugs you can apply some anti-seize and as long as you don’t go for too many miles, next time that won’t happen. I’ve always used just a very tiny dab of moly-lube (a type of black grease) on the threads when I install plugs and that has always worked for me. I replaced the plugs in my truck last summer, after they were in there for 10 years, and they came out slick as a whistle.

One other tip: Often it is easier and faster when fixing cars, if something is in the way, just remove it first. Rather than battling what’s in the way the whole time. Then just replace it back where it was when you are done. Best of luck.


Thank you, everyone for the replies. Much appreciate it. I am going to get the spark plugs from the dealership so I don’t buy the incorrect part, plus they are same cost.

Same cost? Really? Plugs from dealers around here are usually 2-3 times higher for the exact same plug.

Actually cheaper, Amazon sells those plugs for about $10.50 and the dealership on my way to work quoted $7.50 each. The closest dealership quoted $20 a pop.

Believe it or not, dealers in my area charge less for OEM parts than after-market parts on some (not very many, it seems) items.

I often check with a dealer when I’m checking on parts (especially expensive things) and am pleasingly surprised when this occurs and I will buy the OEM part(s) from the dealer.

Glad they do. Wish my area did. The ONLY thing I found our local dealers charge fairly reasonable price for is Oil Filters. Air filters are outrageously priced…but Oil filters are reasonable. And cabin air filters are really outrageous. I can buy the exact same Denso cabin filter for $20, where dealer charges $60 Plus another $40 to install it (it’s a 5 minute job).

In my area, I have one Nissan dealer 2 miles from my house and another 1 mile from my work.
I’m lucky enough to get parts almost at internet pricing from the first one.
The second one consistently asks for 2-3x times first one will charge.
Go figure :slight_smile:

Same here

My local Toyota dealer actually charges less for their oil filters, versus a comparable Wix from your local auto parts store

And as you said, all the other filters are priced very high

The brake pads are competitively priced. Slightly more than your store brand or Wagner pads, for example, but quite fair, when you consider they’re the factory parts.