01 accord has trans drain plug but no pan so changing filter is out. I changed 3 qts in attempt to see if it might improve my “missing” OD? Nope. I still swear it shifts 1-2-3-4 but maybe confused by not normal torque conv lockup issues. I cruise at 2700rpm at 55mph which is not right. But I have no flashing D4 light so the computer is happy? Have not been able to confirm if trans will set code and alert driver if it cannot shift into 4th. Shouldn’t computer set code if I cannot go to 4th? Or am I in 4th and slipping? But than I would get a wrong rpm code detected?
01 Accord automatic transmission is a known lemon. From 98 to 02 the automatics on the Accord had many problems. I hope I am wrong but I am willing to wager that you are now experiencing the imminent death of your transmission.
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Darn. My $300 purchase is wasted. Got it this way. Been driving it for 2 months. A/c works great. Nice little around town car. I did find a “good” used trans for 400. Put it in and sell it for 1000? Woohoo. Big profit.
See if you can get it scanned for transmission codes. A lot of auto parts stores will scan cars for free. And check that the check engine light and/or the D4 light hasn’t somehow been disabled/REMOVED by the previous owner to keep you from knowing at the time of purchase (at least you’ll know). If you didn’t use Honda brand transmission fluid, then you should change it again a couple of times with Honda brand fluid. bloody_knuckles is right that this generation accord is legendary for transmission problems, and they are also very finicky about the transmission fluid. Honda makes their transmissions significantly differently than other transmissions since they were originally a motorcycle company, and the fluid requirements are not generic as a result.
Cel works. D4,d3,d2,d1 all work when shifted. Dash D4 light is supposed to remain on always? It does not flash. Car had misfire at first. 1 bad coil. Runs fine now. No codes. You need a >$100 code reader for trans codes. AZ readers are not
What makes you say that?
That era Accord had lots of tranny problems. Extended warranties resulted, but I bet they’re expired.
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At his speed, when you move the throttle a little, does RPM stay constant, indicating the torque converter is locked?
Another poster – Yosemite — has been having some transmission problems. In his case it will only shift to R and 1, never go into 2,3,or 4. So his problem is different than yours, plus it’s a different transmission, GM I think. But you could check that thread, maybe something helpful there which applies for you too. One idea from that thread, on his transmission engaging 4th gear had a lot of electronic involvement which the other gears didn’t. Solenoids, sensors, software involved for 4th gear only. So you might have something like that too, and maybe you just need a solenoid replaced. At least you know it has fresh fluid installed, that’s something.
I would take a look at the shift solenoids first. It does not cost anything to clean them.
The torque converter locks in first gear and that will feel like your first shift. I think you are not going into fourth gear for some reason. Yes, the D4 is supposed to stay lit anytime you have drive selected, unless it finds a fault, then it flashes.
You might have a problem with your cooling system or your coolant temp sensor. The transmission is not supposed to shift into 4th gear if the engine is not up to operating temperature. If the sensor is bad, the transmission will do what it is supposed to do and keep you in 3rd. That won’t set a DTC for the transmission because it is working as it should.
You should be getting a code for the coolant temp too low though unless the transmission uses a separate sensor, which I don’t think it does.
Edit, it might be using the ATF temp to determine when to shift into 4th and that could be bad. The wrong ATF could also cause an issue. Be sure to use the latest Honda ATF, it helps the transmission with rough shifting in cold weather.
Ironically, my temp gauge is wonky. It reads normal “warm” upon cold starts. And never moves. Up or down. It goes to cold when I shut off car. Cooling fans work fine. Fans kick on when I turn on a/c. Fans will kick on in warm idling situations. Like drive thru. I tried a different coolant sensor. Same result.
Been told to try different cluster to see if temp issue changes.
And change Pcm to see if shifting changes.
But you need to reprogram security if you change pcm since it works with security key.